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Re: 2001 Elite S
Posted: Fri Jun 25, 2010 6:58 pm
by kingearwig
well turns out my bottom end bearings wont be here for a while so I will just grind those gears off... i'll post pics
Re: 2001 Elite S
Posted: Fri Jun 25, 2010 8:31 pm
by kingearwig
ALSO does anyone have any base gaskets for sale? I would go for 3-4 depending on the price. I had detonation issues before until I ran high octane... I would like to avoid that.
Re: 2001 Elite S
Posted: Fri Jun 25, 2010 9:26 pm
by wiguy05
kingearwig wrote:well turns out my bottom end bearings wont be here for a while so I will just grind those gears off... i'll post pics
Why even bother asking for advice when you're going to
half-azz your machine as always?

Re: 2001 Elite S
Posted: Sat Jun 26, 2010 9:10 am
by trains420
traffic i was saying the quarters thing, someone suggested him, was a joke. you know i was the only one who said that.
and how's grinding gears off half azzing. i mean half of you do it. isn't that exactly how you turn off the pump. if there was plugs from vtcycles. i mean does he always, half azz. way to read.
Re: 2001 Elite S
Posted: Sun Jun 27, 2010 2:31 am
by Trafficjamz
trains420 wrote:traffic i was saying the quarters thing, someone suggested him, was a joke. you know i was the only one who said that.
and how's grinding gears off half azzing. i mean half of you do it. isn't that exactly how you turn off the pump. if there was plugs from vtcycles. i mean does he always, half azz. way to read.
The big money plug started as a joke.......but it actually works!
You have to put in a rubber o ring between the pennines and the quarters though.
If grinding off the gears is half azzin' ....well whatever it works.

Re: 2001 Elite S
Posted: Mon Jun 28, 2010 5:12 pm
by kingearwig
I spit the case using the harmonic balancer puller from autozone. Worked great. Now the bearings are stuck to the crank... how do I get the one off that is almost touching the big part of the crank?
I also cleaned up the crank case with engine degreaser, carb cleaner, and a scotch brite pad. looks pretty descent
also started the boost port work. I have been using a file and a hack saw. pretty soft stuff. I will have to finish with the old magic stick though... the file wont get into some of the places I want get into.

Re: 2001 Elite S
Posted: Mon Jun 28, 2010 6:23 pm
by evilone
Re: 2001 Elite S
Posted: Mon Jun 28, 2010 6:28 pm
by kingearwig
will the "heat and beat" method work here?
Re: 2001 Elite S
Posted: Mon Jun 28, 2010 8:50 pm
by bakaracer
kingearwig wrote:will the "heat and beat" method work here?
thats a good way to damage the crank or bend it.
Re: 2001 Elite S
Posted: Tue Jun 29, 2010 1:14 am
by veedubh20
From what I see, both bearings on a crank.
sound like the cases had lots of miles.
the crank bearings need to be tight into both crank case.
if bearings dont hold good on case, then ,need to get another crank cases.
Re: 2001 Elite S
Posted: Tue Jun 29, 2010 8:03 am
by Fishman43
I now own one of these, but the first time I needed one I just went to a Midas locally and they used their bearing separator on my crank for free.
Re: 2001 Elite S
Posted: Tue Jun 29, 2010 9:53 am
by Wheelman-111
Greetings:
I have the bearing separator shown above. The price is considerably less than a good one from Snap-On. That's because it isn't a good one...
It needs a lot of work to get it to "bite" under the bearing. The edges are very blunt and it tends just to crush the outer race rather than peeling it away from the crank flywheel. I honed mine to a knife-edge and still had trouble getting it to slip under the bearing.
Regardless of the quality of the puller, the removal process may in any case damage the bearing beyond reliable usability. Side loads on ball bearings can be harmful. Consider replacement for about $40 for Honda NTNs as cheap insurance.
Re: 2001 Elite S
Posted: Wed Jun 30, 2010 12:48 am
by kingearwig
Wheelman-111 wrote:Greetings:
I have the bearing separator shown above. The price is considerably less than a good one from Snap-On. That's because it isn't a good one...
It needs a lot of work to get it to "bite" under the bearing. The edges are very blunt and it tends just to crush the outer race rather than peeling it away from the crank flywheel. I honed mine to a knife-edge and still had trouble getting it to slip under the bearing.
Regardless of the quality of the puller, the removal process may in any case damage the bearing beyond reliable usability. Side loads on ball bearings can be harmful. Consider replacement for about $40 for Honda NTNs as cheap insurance.
the bearings are in the mail... maybe... turns out cyclepartswarehouse.com doesn't actually house any wares... they have to wait to get it from honda then send it to me
my motocross buddy says to just heat the inner race carefully and then pry with a screwdriver and they should pop off.
Re: 2001 Elite S
Posted: Wed Jun 30, 2010 12:51 am
by kingearwig
veedubh20 wrote:From what I see, both bearings on a crank.
sound like the cases had lots of miles.
the crank bearings need to be tight into both crank case.
if bearings dont hold good on case, then ,need to get another crank cases.
This is true it has 8000+ and they look spun. I am not getting another case... can you think of anything I can do to half azz it?
Re: 2001 Elite S
Posted: Wed Jun 30, 2010 12:36 pm
by Wheelman-111
Greetings:
Quoth Kingearwig:
This is true it has 8000+ and they look spun. I am not getting another case... can you think of anything I can do to half azz it?
Couple wraps of duct tape around the outer race always works for me...
Seriously, if the bearing's spun it may not come off the crank as easily as your friend suggested. I had one that resisted all my rocks and pointy sticks. Took it to Honda-san and he did no better. He eventually used a cutting wheel and peeled it off in segments with a chisel. I coulda done that...
If I absolutely, positively had to reassemble those cases, I'd consider a couple dots of the Slow JB weld to the outer races before hammerin' them in. However the Right Thing to Do is to replace the crankcases.