Re: Sym dd50 build!!
Posted: Fri Apr 27, 2012 2:32 pm
Greetings:
The bearings aren't all that tight a fit on the crankshaft or the cases. If you really don't care about the crank. thread on a couple of nuts to the end of the crank. Then make sure you SUPPORT the crankcase on a work surface like my WorkMate with the nutty end of the crankshaft pointing up, the case pointing down. Then use a proper Metal hammer to strike the nut - attached to the crank and tap it out. The nut will get dented, but the crank should be fine unless you fail to catch it before it hits the floor.
Sometimes the bearings stay stuck in the case. Put the biggest socket you can fit on it and tap it out the same way. A bearing puller slide-hammer is more elegant, but since you will be replacing the bearings anyway (Won't You??) it doesn't really matter. If you put the case+crank in the freezer for an hour, then use a Propane torch to warm the case, sometimes the bearing just falls out.
If the bearing is stuck to the shaft, you'll need this Large Bearing Separator and/or This kit. The smaller separators didn't work on mine, and I had to modify - sharpen the edges with a grinder - of the big separator to get it to dissect my bearing off a used - and overheated - crank. Any bearing subjected to this tool must be replaced. $40 from Honda for the real NTK stuff is well worth it.
Yes a press is nice to have, but costly. Also in my opinion there is a greater risk of cracking the case. Working on Iron Surfaces with a machine with that much power, things happen all at once. You really have to know what you're doing to use it safely. Tap-tapping with the case on wood is safer.
Reassembly with the TUSK tool is a MUST. Remember that. Tusk is a Must! Honda-san's tool is even better, because you can use it to press in the seal to the prescribed depth. But it'll cost over $150 if your dealer can even find it. I just use Mighty Wheel-Thumbs.
The bearings aren't all that tight a fit on the crankshaft or the cases. If you really don't care about the crank. thread on a couple of nuts to the end of the crank. Then make sure you SUPPORT the crankcase on a work surface like my WorkMate with the nutty end of the crankshaft pointing up, the case pointing down. Then use a proper Metal hammer to strike the nut - attached to the crank and tap it out. The nut will get dented, but the crank should be fine unless you fail to catch it before it hits the floor.
Sometimes the bearings stay stuck in the case. Put the biggest socket you can fit on it and tap it out the same way. A bearing puller slide-hammer is more elegant, but since you will be replacing the bearings anyway (Won't You??) it doesn't really matter. If you put the case+crank in the freezer for an hour, then use a Propane torch to warm the case, sometimes the bearing just falls out.
If the bearing is stuck to the shaft, you'll need this Large Bearing Separator and/or This kit. The smaller separators didn't work on mine, and I had to modify - sharpen the edges with a grinder - of the big separator to get it to dissect my bearing off a used - and overheated - crank. Any bearing subjected to this tool must be replaced. $40 from Honda for the real NTK stuff is well worth it.
Yes a press is nice to have, but costly. Also in my opinion there is a greater risk of cracking the case. Working on Iron Surfaces with a machine with that much power, things happen all at once. You really have to know what you're doing to use it safely. Tap-tapping with the case on wood is safer.
Reassembly with the TUSK tool is a MUST. Remember that. Tusk is a Must! Honda-san's tool is even better, because you can use it to press in the seal to the prescribed depth. But it'll cost over $150 if your dealer can even find it. I just use Mighty Wheel-Thumbs.
