Honda Spree and Elite 50 Forums

So I just picked up a wrecked NQ50 for $40 bucks it runs only if you mess with the fuel shutoff valve that was placed inbetween the carb and fuel valve. It seems to run best when the fuel valve is opened for a second then closed. So my assumption is that its flooding itself. so what do I need to do first? clean the carbs, replace the fuel valve?

turbobluemiata wrote:So I just picked up a wrecked NQ50 for $40 bucks it runs only if you mess with the fuel shutoff valve that was placed inbetween the carb and fuel valve. It seems to run best when the fuel valve is opened for a second then closed. So my assumption is that its flooding itself. so what do I need to do first? clean the carbs, replace the fuel valve?

do both

why do guys write"clean the carbs".....There is ONLY ONE CARB on a spree.

When you have the fuel valve out, check that the strainer is in place in the tank. Previous owners sometimes take them out. Then foreign matter can get into the valve seal and the carb float valve causing repeat problems.

why do guys write"clean the carbs".....There is ONLY ONE CARB on a spree

Can't argue with the arithmetic, only offer that sometimes the advice here is 'clean the carb, clean the carb'

toofast34 wrote:why do guys write"clean the carbs".....There is ONLY ONE CARB on a spree.

some have extra carbs hidden in the crankcase

jokes..

mousewheels wrote:

why do guys write"clean the carbs".....There is ONLY ONE CARB on a spree

Can't argue with the arithmetic, only offer that sometimes the advice here is 'clean the carb, clean the carb'

So if we clean it twice, we have two "carbs"? Back in your match box you go.

turbobluemiata,
Since your issue seems to be "flooding", when you rework the carb, give special attention to the float valve and seat. The older carbs don't have replaceable seats (do the later ones?), but put a little dab of toothpaste on a Q-tip and polish the seat. Yes, use the good stuff that has abrasives. The kind that wears the enamel off your teeth. Not that bubble gum stuff... Anyway, it will polish out any problems in the seat. And then give special attention to the condition of the valve itself. Don't forget to rinse well afterward... the carb, not your teeth.

The petcock is a "backup" for the float valve. I have a couple of scooters which the petcock is frozen in open position, and fuel system is totally dependent on the carburetor float valve. I had a flooding problem dumping gas all over the ground until I fixed the float problem.

okay well I have the tank off and I dont see a "said" strainer? any pics? sorry this is my first scooer so clean the "carb" singular

The strainer is suppose to be up in the tank right where your vacuume valve screws unto the tank. If you take the valve off it should slip out or you should be able to see it. If there isn't one you can always put an inline fuel filter in your gas line between the vacuume valve and carburetor.

toofast34 wrote:why do guys write"clean the carbs".....There is ONLY ONE CARB on a spree.

Clean the carbs...must be Asian

I am completely American and Caucasian thank you , but I cleaned out the carb and gas tank checked for vacuum leaks, used toothpaste to reseat, and still runs like s*** so I bought a new fuel shutoff valve mine drips gas when the motors off so I think its broke and beyond repair, any other ideas?

Four words. "Change the Spark plug."

Ohh yea I did that to and after cranking it for a while the plug was wet and smelled like gas so Im assuming its that valve I hope

I know that you said you cleaned the carb, but did you make sure that small hole located next to the main jet tube was clear of all debris. That hole is a tough one, but many members on here use guitar string #13 i think to clear it up. Definately change the plug as Bear states after you address your leaky petcock aka fuel valve. Reason is your plug may have already fouled due to all the gas and oil saturated in the electrode.

Also blow it out with compressed air. Blow it out really really well!

Another good idea is to download the Honda Spree service manual on this site for free. There are detailed drawings for every part of the bike in there. Step by step instructions on how to do everything.

Also search Seafoam as I've learned through personal experience that its very useful in keeping those carb passageways clear and helping in stabilizing fuel during storage.

Also blow it out with compressed air. Blow it out really really well!

And more important than that, make sure you can squirt carb cleaner through every passage, especially the one that runs parallel to the main jet tube. If it ain't clean, scooter will bog on acceleration.

And don't forget the tiny hole in the bowl going down to the bottom of the bystarter. I was helping a guy recently who just happens to be a jeweler and watchmaker. When the guitar string seemed inadequate, we went to his store and he pulled out the smallest drill bit I've ever seen, chucked it up in his cable dremel, and drilled out what looked like calcium. I'm sure it was hardened varnish, but if water got in the system, it could have been calcium. This scooter had been setting in a barn for several years.

Update: well I got the fuel valve in today, bought a brand new one and replaced the plug at the same time, started right up idled for a bit then died and wouldnt start back up until I sprayed starter fluid in the carb fired right back up then idled and revved for a bit and died again, It wont stay running starts right up then dies??? now what do you suggest I took the carb back off and sprayed out every passage again with air and carb cleaner, but In my observation the fuel line from the petcock to carb is see through and when it is idling the gas stays at the same level and or bubbles???