Honda Spree and Elite 50 Forums

Bought a new auto-bystarter,...out of the box it reads 20.1 ohms, book says 10 max. What gives.

kpa2004 wrote:Bought a new auto-bystarter,...out of the box it reads 20.1 ohms, book says 10 max. What gives.

How good is your meter? Is it a $200 Fluke unit or a Harbor Freight $4 unit. (I always compare my cheap beat it around shop and field tester against my high dollar Fluke unit.) In either case have you checked to see how accuracte your meter actually is on a known resistance? My money says if it is a Honda part it is good.

Its a 200 dollar fluke that was calibrated 3 months ago, I know its hard for you to assume everybody in this forum is an idiot, Just answer the question if you can otherwise dont resopnd please.

Is it one of the bystarters off ebay? I have heard that those have about 25% chance of working right.

kpa2004 wrote:Its a 200 dollar fluke that was calibrated 3 months ago, I know its hard for you to assume everybody in this forum is an idiot, Just answer the question if you can otherwise dont resopnd please.

OK idiot, maybe you wouldn't think there have been any changes in the past 25 years to improve these parts but I'll bet hard money there have been. Try a function test, but if you were really as smart as you claim to be and actually had a $200 Fluke meter, you should have thought of that yourself. Since you didn't, I guess I will NOW assume you are a dumb azz. FYI, the question was a valid question, only a moron would have been offended by it.

Yes it was as a matter of fact. I also noticed that the needle didn't quite measure up to the old one, meaning it was shorter than the old one, My old one still works but, one of the plastic ears holding the the needle assy in, was broke, and instead of waiting for imminent failure, I just got a new one, I ended up putting the old one back in and I guess I'll live with it. I was trying to get someone who may know of a possible specification change perhaps that wasn't reflected in the written data, as to why the ohm reading was not what the manual said it should be, model yr change?...resistor upgrade?....Or plain and simple, piece of crap part.

Bear I thought I told you to shut up...thank you.

kpa2004 wrote:Bear I thought I told you to shut up...thank you.

You not only don't have the authority to tell me to do anything but you are not man enough to back it up if you did.

kpa2004 wrote:Bear I thought I told you to shut up...thank you.

WHAT AN AZZHOLE

Answers only bear, not idle threats, thats all I want. If you dont have the answer please stop reading this post. thats about as plainly as I can put it. Its easy to type in muscles.

kpa2004 wrote:Its a 200 dollar fluke that was calibrated 3 months ago, I know its hard for you to assume everybody in this forum is an idiot, Just answer the question if you can otherwise dont resopnd please.

Prehaps in a slightly better tone people will help. I have your answer, and honestly I don't care anymore. Repect is earned not given.

kpa2004 wrote:Answers only bear, not idle threats, thats all I want. If you dont have the answer please stop reading this post. thats about as plainly as I can put it. Its easy to type in muscles.

I made not threats, idle, vailed or otherwise. For you they are not only unnecessary but useless as you wouldn't believe anyone would dare threaten someone as important and itellegent as you. Besides I never threaten, I only promise.

I have no problem w/other people. Its hard to avoid bears responses while reading through various posts, and the sense I get when reading any of bears responses is that he is highly condensending, assumes everyone should know the answer proir to posting, and he is some kind of god, please spare me the loyalty crap and respect. people just want their questions answered ....thats all ....and I highly doubt you have the answer either. So please again..DONT respond unless you know what the answer is, how hard is that?

Let this post die with his scoot.

here here I agree