Honda Spree and Elite 50 Forums

so ive been trying to get my temps right with tuning gone over and jb welded some of the ports shut the one on my ct and the 2 on the oil pump im using the port on my carb i have the power jet disabled... and im running rich i can tell with the 4 stoking its doing and the sweating of the intake.... but around town i can cruise all day long tems stay around 300 or less.. but when i try to cruise around at 40 temps will go 350 plus and keep rising seems bad since i have 6.9 gears i have no idea where to check now for air leaks any ideas from anyone? jets in the carb are 58/158 in a 28mm oko

winter comes rip down clean make ports even smoother get new gaskets and just look everything over real well not what you wanna hear but i think it will be the best reply your gonna get man thats what i plan on doing with the nq

Greetings:

Quoth TooSpreeOrDon't:

...tuning gone over and jb welded some of the ports shut the one on my ct and the 2 on the oil pump im using the port on my carb i have the power jet disabled...

Whew, that's a mouthful. First off, JB Welding seems like a difficult process, hard to reverse. You could visit your friendly Auto-O'Reilly-Pep-Zone store for some vacuum line caps in 1/8" sizes. They work about as well, easy to undo. Put a clamp on 'em if you're worried about it.

Second, am I to understand that the pump is still installed, but its lines are plugged? If so, the internal pump mechanism is still grinding around in there, only without the GN-2 internal lubrication. Hit VTCycles or Taz or Limp for a proper pump plug - about $10.

The pump doesn't leak air but I'm not aware of any "port" on any aftermarket carb that can be used for anything. Is it possible that your leak is there? Any JBWeld come loose someplace, allowing air in?

Definitely re-torque the head bolts at least once, and check for telltale smears of oil or hot gases around the exhaust. Ditto for the area around the base gasket. The reed block can crack and leak there as well. I agree with FP, a good going-over seems indicated aside from the carb/port issues.

Wheelman-111 wrote:
Second, am I to understand that the pump is still installed, but its lines are plugged? If so, the internal pump mechanism is still grinding around in there, only without the GN-2 internal lubrication. Hit VTCycles or Taz or Limp for a proper pump plug - about $10.
ues.

The gears are all ground off

And since 2spreeornot2spree bought chineese food last week, I owe him a plug.

ya that probably will be the winter project a tear down and clean up sounds like a good plan itll give me somthing to do make it all clean and shiny

i dont know if its an electrical issue but i sprayed break cleaner into my air intake for the engine plastics i think i may have found my air leak if the seal is not in place like it should might that be the leak?

Greetings:

It might. Checking will require removal of the shroud, alternator and stator. Behind those you'll see the right end of the crankshaft poking through a black rubber seal. Any air getting past that will be a problem. Often there's some oil mist blowing out.

ill probably hit up trafficjamz racing tomorrow and tear it apart to see if thats the problem

Greetings:

Sometimes seals just go bad. Usually there's a reason such as a wobble in the crank. Check its runout if you have a dual gauge.

Wheelman-111 wrote:Greetings:

Sometimes seals just go bad. Usually there's a reason such as a wobble in the crank. Check its runout if you have a dual gauge.

d*** mini storker cranks...

Greetings:

Quoth FastPlastic:

d*** mini storker cranks...

My Ruima 44.1 was measured by Honda-san himself after the unfortunate demise of Flash 4.0. He actually called me with the results, he was so stunned!! It was as dead-on perfect as any crankshaft he'd ever seen. Runout below measurable.

Where things go wrong is with hard seizures, and mis-applied torque forces such as ... umm, I dunno... A RATTLE GUN?!

Treat Your Crankshafts Well
- Crosby Stills Nash & Young

R.I.P Little Guy