Honda Spree and Elite 50 Forums

So i bought this 85 spree at scooter theropy and it was running pretty good. me and my friend both bought one so we could ride togather and work on them. i was rideing mine everywere i went it was a little faster than his about 30 ish maby a little slower. anyways i was rideing home one night and it just died on me, so i go and get it started again and again i started slowing down and it died again so finly it just didnt start and i go home and open up the air box and the filter is disolved in the middle all into dust going srtaight into the carb! so i pull the connector back off the carb and half the carb was full on wet dust from the filter. i got some carb and choke cleaner and cleaned out the carb and washed out the air filter box and it road again. no problems after that! then my buddy used my moped and never put oil in it and he was wondering why it died on him in the middle of the road. i go and pick it up and it had no oil in it. so there it sat in my grage for about 2 mounts and the other day i was wanting to ride it so i looked up how to fix it. the bbk is what i found. i took off the cylnder and i took a few pics for you to see..





it looks dirty in there. i think part of the air filter may be that problem. should i clean it out befor i install new bbk?? how??








the piston was so scraped up that the piston rings couldnt come off even if i wanted them to.

what do u guys think....

get the 44mm kit instead of the 48mm

The 44mm is easier to tune.

Turn the engine upside down and spray compressed air in there to clean it up.

Greetings:

I'm sure TJz was kidding. In case you took him seriously, the suggestion he gave is inconsistent with any chance for your scooter to live a long happy and productive life.

I strongly recommend you get some help if necessary, and do a complete disassembly of those engine cases. It's a little work, but easy compared to say... a CBX inline 6. The reason is that there are nooks and crannies that surely still contain little bits of piston shrapnel all around the insides of those cases, bearings seals, etc. Chances are that if you only reassemble a shiny new top end, some of those fragments that remain after your compressed-air Schpritzing will work their way loose once again, to circulate in the hurricane-force winds of the transfer process, only to become wedged once again between the piston and the edges of various ports. Those that lodged in the main bearings will quickly grind up your balls and dramatically shorten the life of the bottom-end as well.

Once the cases are apart, it may be possible to clean the bearings, but I don't think it can be done effectively without splitting the crankcase. Better still, replace them along with the seals for the $30 or so it might cost, and have essentially a new engine when you're done.

Wheelman-111 wrote:Greetings:
I'm sure TJz was kidding. In case you took him seriously, the suggestion he gave is inconsistent with any chance for your scooter to live a long happy and productive life.

I was NOT kidding.

Of course I would rip the whole engine apart and clean it up.

I was just making a suggestion based on what I thought the OP could handle.

Most of the aluminum from the piston is probably smeared on the cylinder walls, not down in the case.

Splitting the case,replacing the gaskets bearings and seals, is a lot more work than most people can do.

And that isn't even getting into the special tools required to put the crank back in without damage.

Don't forget to slosh some oil around in the bottom end too, to help clean it out.

Actually to clean the crankcase without disassembling it, half to 3/4 fill it with acetone, slosh it around and rotate the crank numerous times and dump it out. Do this 3 or 4 times, then fill the crankcase with 2 stroke oil and let it sit overnight with rotating the crank at least 30 times over a period of hours.

Disassembling and cleaning would be better but this is the next best thing.

Bear45-70 wrote:Actually to clean the crankcase without disassembling it, half to 3/4 fill it with acetone, slosh it around and rotate the crank numerous times and dump it out. Do this 3 or 4 times, then fill the crankcase with 2 stroke oil and let it sit overnight with rotating the crank at least 30 times over a period of hours.

Disassembling and cleaning would be better but this is the next best thing.

Agreed. Make sure you get those crank bearings coated in good oil before starting the engine though.

Ive followed the above procedure and used fresh gasoline instead of acetone. It worked like a charm, for me at least. Of course if you have the means to split the cases then we strongly encourage you to do so.

That rang with me Wheelman. I had a CBX and all was well until after a run I looked back and found a plume of oil smoke trailing me. I didn't have to tear the bottom end down but it had a cracked head. Honda san replaced the head for me.

Wheelman-111 wrote:Greetings:

I'm sure TJz was kidding. In case you took him seriously, the suggestion he gave is inconsistent with any chance for your scooter to live a long happy and productive life.

I strongly recommend you get some help if necessary, and do a complete disassembly of those engine cases. It's a little work, but easy compared to say... a CBX inline 6. The reason is that there are nooks and crannies that surely still contain little bits of piston shrapnel all around the insides of those cases, bearings seals, etc. Chances are that if you only reassemble a shiny new top end, some of those fragments that remain after your compressed-air Schpritzing will work their way loose once again, to circulate in the hurricane-force winds of the transfer process, only to become wedged once again between the piston and the edges of various ports. Those that lodged in the main bearings will quickly grind up your balls and dramatically shorten the life of the bottom-end as well.

Once the cases are apart, it may be possible to clean the bearings, but I don't think it can be done effectively without splitting the crankcase. Better still, replace them along with the seals for the $30 or so it might cost, and have essentially a new engine when you're done.

Greetings:

Let me guess: It was a 1979 and the head cracked between the middle cylinders?

bradthreee wrote:Ive followed the above procedure and used fresh gasoline instead of acetone. It worked like a charm, for me at least. Of course if you have the means to split the cases then we strongly encourage you to do so.

Gasoline is extremely flamable and is never recommended for any solvent job. Yes, acetone is flamable, but no where near a bad as gas is. Beside acetone is cheaper by the gallon than gas is.

Bear45-70 wrote:

bradthreee wrote:Ive followed the above procedure and used fresh gasoline instead of acetone. It worked like a charm, for me at least. Of course if you have the means to split the cases then we strongly encourage you to do so.

Gasoline is extremely flamable and is never recommended for any solvent job. Yes, acetone is flamable, but no where near a bad as gas is. Beside acetone is cheaper by the gallon than gas is.

What? Acetone < Gasoline

Is Gas over $10 a gallon in Washington ?!?


And less flammable ? ......Gonna have to disagree there too.

acetone, methyl alcohol, ethyl alcohol, gasoline, and toluene all have Class IB Flash points.

All very flammable

the bear is a joke

maddog wrote:the bear is a joke

Is that a personal attack maddog?

unless you have done it= don't post it, i like the way you use old posts to make yourself look good