Honda Spree and Elite 50 Forums

When i was kicking it over i noticed no fuel was flowing through the fuel line
I pulled off the vacuum line and sucked on it and it came rushing through the fuel line.

I'm pretty sure the vacuum from the crank case should be strong enough to pull fuel through the line even with an inline filter but maybe im wrong

Ik the three things you need are

-Spark
-Air
-Fuel

-I have very nice blue sparks with the plug that came with the corsa
-Not sure how to check if i have air but i assume so. Tried multiple times with choke on and off
-As i posted above, i did have to suck on the vacuum line to get the fuel to flow

I changed the jets in the carb to a 45, 120 in a 21mm oko.

when you kick it over, place your hand over the carb. sometimes you have to help fill the bowl quicker. plus the petcock might have gotten stuck from sitting while you did your build.

Over the air intake?

And its a brand new petcock straight off the honda shop shelf

Do what baka says. A new one will be stiffer than a broken in one will be.

Oh and what you need for your engine to run are;

1)Compression

2)Fuel, The right ratio to the air and you can't have fuel without air on a carb engine.

3)Spark, but it has to be enough spark and at the right time. Jumping the gap of a plug may well not be enough spark. The spark needs to be able to jump about a 1/2" gap. If you got the flywheel on wrong, you will have spark, but at the wrong time.

Petrock's 1984 Spree wrote:Over the air intake?

And its a brand new petcock straight off the honda shop shelf

yeah put over the mouth of the carb while your trying to kick start it. sometimes those new petcock diaphram will get stuck. where do you have that vaccuum hose hooked up to? post a pic of your setup

Bear45-70 wrote:Do what baka says. A new one will be stiffer than a broken in one will be.

Oh and what you need for your engine to run are;

1)Compression

2)Fuel, The right ratio to the air and you can't have fuel without air on a carb engine.

3)Spark, but it has to be enough spark and at the right time. Jumping the gap of a plug may well not be enough spark. The spark needs to be able to jump about a 1/2" gap. If you got the flywheel on wrong, you will have spark, but at the wrong time.

1) It has 125 psi compression so its not that
2) I assume i need to set the carb to honda factory specs
3) I havent screwed with the flywheel at all so that shouldnt be an issue

bakaracer wrote:

Petrock's 1984 Spree wrote:Over the air intake?

And its a brand new petcock straight off the honda shop shelf

yeah put over the mouth of the carb while your trying to kick start it. sometimes those new petcock diaphram will get stuck. where do you have that vaccuum hose hooked up to? post a pic of your setup

Okay ill definately try that tomoro.Heres the set up

P1010964 by jpetrak, on Flickr

hey make sure that fuel hose points more in a downward angle. the petcock is a gravity feed so if the hose goes in a upward angle, its slows the fuel down and the carb will starve for fuel.the vacuum from the engine pulls the diaphram down to let fuel through.gravity takes over from there.

Alright i chopped the fuel line and the vacuum line a bit so they would angle downward more, put my hand over the intake and it started right up!

Now i got another problem though. It idles extremely high and whips the back wheel around pretty dang fast. I tried to adjust the idle screw a bit but it didn't seem to help so i shut it off. Could there be something else causing it to do that?

Greetings:

I noticed that forward-angled carb top cable guide. Since it isn't adjustable, it could be that the slide isn't going down to its "Idle" position if the cable is too short. There are two places to adjust that aftermarket cable, but if you can't get enough slack, consider the carb top with the adjustable cable guide.

I had an OKO/Keihin from a less-reputable vendor a while back. The slide was sticking in its bore, and there was little I could do to get it to move freely. The exchange/replacement worked perfectly.

did you get a new throttle cable when you got the carb?

The stock cable will not allow the oko slide to close all the way.

Wheelman you are one mad genius sir
I adjusted it so i could get all the slack possible out of the cable.

TJamz-not using the stock cable, got one that came with the carb kit from autotech355

I let it warm all the way up to see where it would level off and at idle it leveled off right at 300-303 after a solid 7 or 8 min (this is without the cooling shrouds)
As soon as i killed it the temps immediately started dropping

One little minor thing would be i adjusted the idle down about as far as i could and still keep the engine running. However no matter how low i drop it the back wheel persists to spin, not fast, but still does. It is on a center stand but i thought it shouldn't do that at idle. Could just be the new clutch perhaps?

If you can stop the rear wheel from turning with your foot, then your OK. If not, your clutch is coming in too fast or your engine RPM are way high.

Yeah i can stop it that way easily, great news

So onto heat cycles now i suppose. I wanna do 10 before i put load on it and have a quick question

Should i do a few heat cycles then alter the idle speed slightly higher or lower for the next few, and so on?
I know when you break it in to ride it you would vary the throttle so same concept here right?