Honda Spree and Elite 50 Forums

Well I got my ebay motor. It has better compression than the old one but still not optimal. It has about 80-90 lbs but if I dump some 2 stroke oil down the cylinder it boosts up to 120. The motor swap was fun. Took me about 2 or 3 hours.

Now to my question. I can start the bike up, run around for about 10 minutes then I start bogging out really bad like almost to the point of not moving. If I give it any gas it will just bog out.

If I shut the scooter off and let it cool down for about 5 minutes it works great for another run, then starts bogging out again.

IT WAS DOING THIS WITH THE OTHER MOTOR so I dont think its something in the new engine. I dont think its float level related, if I open up the drain screw I get a good amount of gas dumping out.

Do you think It could be a overheating/lubrication problem?

I reused the carb and coil/spark plug and wire off the old motor and it was doing this a little before the swap. Im thinking something carb related but why only when warm? It works perfect when first started.


Also when I looked at my plug after running a bit, it was a very light brown almost grey color. I think its going lean on me.

wait it took u 2-3 hours to do the engine swap wow it only took me about a half hour to do mine in my elite..

Part of it was tracking down all the screws and bolts from when I took it apart 2 weeks ago. Its ok, Im proud of me

Anyways I read back on the bogging problem and someone suggested moving the needle clip up a notch. Im gonna try that in a few minutes.
I think part of the problem may be that I am running without the plastic side panels and it is changing the air flow to the motor.

no my spree never had thos plastic panels and it always ran fine

Is there a way to get the oil pump to spit out more oil? If I move the needle clip, I will have more fuel but the same amount of oil correct?

Is it bad to premix my gas if I am unsure about the oil pump?

I moved the clip to the 5th position. It sounds rich now but started bogging after about 15 minutes.

does it got all the right air cleaner stuff on it

maby a piston prob. when the cylinder expands u loose compression due to bad rings

air filter and intake are all stock and in good shape. The carb definately has gas in it when it bogs out..... not a float problem.

Needle in the 5th position ran richer but still bogged.

Needle in 3rd position ran leaner but still bogged.

Arrrrggg I suppose it could be compression related. Wouldnt the motor have better compression when warm though?

make it choke more. tape half the hole for air suction into the carb

I will try that next.

it might be that u half to tape half of half on yours. u gotta figure that out.

OK, in order:

2-3 hours for the swap is good for 1st time. Myspree had to steal an engine back, he's real fast.

That compression's too low. That's the problem with used engines. When your engine heats up, compression drops, BTW. At 90 PSI you need a re-ring, but maybe not a bore job, just a hone. If running it a bit doesn't improve it, you still have work ahead. Sometimes they come up after a bit. Good news is you're closer now.

You should have bled the oil system per the manual. If you don't trust it, mix up some 32:1 gas-oil, but if you do block off the auto oiler at the output and at the manifold! Otherwise you'll get too much oil and lean out. Much better to just get it bled and working. Check operation per the manual, a drop every 5-10 seconds at idle's about right.

Don't block the intake. That's just a band-aid for a real problem that needs addressed. You're asking for trouble with that.

WOOOhhooooo. I unplugged the bystarter wires and took the tape off the intake and its running great. I was just out for like 25 minutes and it didnt start acting up.

no one steals frome me haha man it took me like a minuet to get that engine bak. you shoulda sow the kids face when i drovew by with that engine on it, he was about to run after me then thought about it ad just walked away... haha