Honda Spree and Elite 50 Forums

I had a guy get my 1987 elite 50/SE50P running. He said he had the idle up a little high but that it has an electronic choke and that once it warms up it would settle down; didn't run real high but started up on a single kick.

I did not have a battery in it when he got it running. It sat indoors for four days and I just installed a new battery. I tried the electronic start, then the kick and it will not start.

My guess was that the bystarter now was changing the "mix". Any suggestions? I disconnected the battery and let it sit an hour and still no luck.

Your help is greatly appreciated.

Are you holding the brake on as you try to start it?

Sounds like someone was adjusting the carb and had no clue of how to do it properly. Look in the service manual for the correct procedure. Also I doubt the bystarter is the problem. A maladjusted carb is more likely the issue.

I have the service manual, but it says to "turn the screws til they seat, noting the number of turns"; therefore it doesn't actually state the setting.

It mentions the air/mix screw being at 1 3/8ths turns out but also says it must be set with the engine warmed up. Mine will not start now.

Can anyone provide a good starting position for both of the two adjustment screws for my 1987 elite 50 SE50P?

THank you.

make sure the tiny inlet in the float bowl is clean that leads to the bystarter valve too wont solve your non start issue though

Yes I am holding the brake when starting.

I found that the starting position for the air/mix screw is 1.5 turns out.

How about the throttle stop screw, where should I have this to start.

I just need to get it to fire/run again and then I can adjust more.

This thing started up on one kick four days ago, just had carb cleaned and set up, only difference was the battery.

Please help.

Greetings:

The scooter will be hard to start if the throttle slide is too far open, for 2 reasons:

1. The open throttle and comparatively small jets make the mixture too lean to combust at low RPM.
2. The petcock won't see much vacuum - maybe too little to let fuel drop into bowl.

Suggestions:

1. Make sure the slide isn't hung up on the little nub in the bore. Observe it for correct operation as you operate the twist grip. It should have dropped all the way in without force on reassembly.
2. Maybe unscrew the throttle stop screw pretty much all the way out and crack the throttle just a hair as you operate the starter. The engine really has to be running to adjust the idle speed screw.
3. Consider priming the carb by pulling vacuum on the smaller of the 2 petcock lines.

I pulled the plug and it was wet, it is getting fuel.

But now for whatever reason I have no spark? Pulled the plug, touched it to some metal and I cannot see/hear any spark.

Everything looks connected, all I did was take the one side cover off to remove the exhaust/change the tires.

What could have happened? THank you.

Greetings:

I had a dodgy connection on one of the low-voltage wires to the coil on my Aero once. Maybe dislodged one of those?
Looks like the plastic has to come off again.

Hoping it is a wire; guess I have to invest in a tester or wait for my mechanic to call me back.

I am guessing/hoping it is not alternator related as last night when I was kicking it over again and again, I noticed the instrument panel lights pulsing on.

This would lead me to believe that the ignition switch is OK, right?

I am so bummed.

I FOUND A PROBLEM: A rodent had chewed the the insulation off portions of three of the wires on the CDI connection.

After repairing the wires, I now have spark. d*** I should have checked before I messed with the carb.

Gonna try to return the settings to they were before I messed with them and hope for the best.

More in a few minutes.

Proper troubleshooting procedure for a no start is:

1) check compression

2) check for spark

3) check for fuel

Got it to start and run; rides very well, so different than my Spree. Still a little off from the factory air screw setting but it seems to run well. I need a tachometer to test the idle speed but it sounds right.

Adjust the idle mixture screw (air screw) for the highest RPM possible. The adjust the idle speed screw so the the rear tire does not rotate. Tachometer not necessary.