Honda Spree and Elite 50 Forums

After doing some reading and research, I purchased one of the manual choke levers from 1977 Mopeds.

Before I install it, I want you all to see some pics of it. The end is flat, meaning there is no needle like the normal by-starter on my Honda Spree. Will this manual choke work without having the needle on the end? I'd rather know before I install it and have problems.

Purchasing Website: https://www.1977mopeds.com/product/1535

Pics:



What are your thoughts?

looks like it will work :G with it on it opens the passage and allows the air inlet in the hole to suck up gas, in the off position it looks like the center of it with effectively close off the fuel inlet. only way to know for sure is install it and let us know how it works

So it doesn't need the needle?

I would think there should he a needle. What happens when you push the lever?

Right there it is in the down position. You pull up on it, and it raises.

the needle basically shuts the enriched fuel slowly sorta like the main throttle needle. All it really needs to start is burst of fuel to start the engine so it can warm up enough to allow the fuel to vaporize in the intake. When the engine reaches a certain temp it requires "less" fuel to function because heat causes molecules to expand allowing the vaporized gas molecules to ignite more effectively than their cold sluggish counterparts. Once the engine has reached that temp the bystarter has also heated to the point where the bystarter has completely extended to shut the enrichment circuit off. no completely sure about the air circuit in there

Let us know if it works well or what adjustments you have to do, i was very close to buying the same one.

So this, not having the needle, will keep that open?

I installed it and it started up just fine. But after awhile at WOT the scooter would bog down and die. I put the by starter back in and it did the same thing at first, then went back to normal. I then put the manual choke in again and rode it around at WOT and it was acting fine.

What would cause it to bog down and die?

Mystic wrote:the needle basically shuts the enriched fuel slowly sorta like the main throttle needle. All it really needs to start is burst of fuel to start the engine so it can warm up enough to allow the fuel to vaporize in the intake. When the engine reaches a certain temp it requires "less" fuel to function because heat causes molecules to expand allowing the vaporized gas molecules to ignite more effectively than their cold sluggish counterparts. Once the engine has reached that temp the bystarter has also heated to the point where the bystarter has completely extended to shut the enrichment circuit off. no completely sure about the air circuit in there

This is gonna hurt, but Mystic is right for once. An auto choke needs the needle for a tapering off effect as the engine warms up. A manual choke shuts off the fuel "now" when you turn it off. This shaped valve is what is on the stock OKO manual bystarter and on the Honda manual choke I got out of Europe.

Ok...So does using this pose any problems? I have it installed and running well. I have the valve closed and it runs great, but when I open the valve, by pulling the choke level upwards, the scooter dies. Is that normal operation?

If I am following correctly you are saying if you get the scooter started, close the valve when it's warm, then re-open (at idle...) it dies?

I think that is ok. If you have the valve closed a while, the bystarter bowl will refill. Popping open the valve will draw all fuel in the little bowl out. and may the mixture too rich to fire for the few cycles it takes to stop running. It re-starts ok doesn't it??

Oh yeah, it fires right back up no problem. It really isn't cold enough to totally test it out, as it starts in the closed position. In the open position, it won't quite kick over.

Yeah could be too rich for the temperature you have.

If you continue to have problems with the bystarter open when temperatures are down, one possibility is the valve is not raising as high as it needs to fully open the air passage - making the mixture on the rich side.

If you have not already - take a look at our bystarter wiki topic. This week I've added cutaway bystarter valve photos which may be helpful.
Wiki bystarter topic link

Which way do I screw the air screw to make it less rich?

Here are pics of it installed:



Once I got it installed in the hole I had to bend down the retaining C-clip so it would hold it in place. Not a big deal, cause it seems to be working.

Thanks for the pic!

Screw is 'out' for leaner, more air is allowed to pass. The fuel side is fixed by the pilot jet.