Honda Spree and Elite 50 Forums

Hey all,
Just created an intro thread as I didn't want to jump right into the questions without first introducing myself.

Picked up this Spree from a friend. Hasn't been registered since 1997 so no title, dead battery etc....
So far:
The oil it fresh, the gas is full and the 2stroke pre-mix oil is topped off.
When I start it, I see a little smoke from the pipe. Never had an oil injection system.... so I'm assuming it works.

I also took a quick video of the Spree starting and running in my garage. I wanted to get the pro's (you) opinion on a noise it's making while running. In my two stroke experience, I would venture to say it's typical high mileage piston slap. It seems to happen more so at idle and gets a little quieter at speed. The dash shows 3,000 miles or so, which is pretty high for an original 2smoke piston (if that's the case).

Running it up and down the block after warm up, the speedo just hit shy of 30mph. I'm sure if my block was a bit longer, it would have done 30. Can I assume that this baby won't go much faster than 30 mph?

All the lights, flashers, horn, etc work. I'm pretty pleased over all for the $200 I spent on a running scoot (sans $25 battery).
If it is piston slap, where can I source the top end for this guy?

Thanks for any/all input... Video of it running here:
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=nofjqxJgjvM

is that noise louder when the motor is cold or hot?

bakaracer wrote:is that noise louder when the motor is cold or hot?

I would say cold... but to 100% honest, I got her home just tonight and did some tinkering. Started it up, let it warm a bit and then ran it up and down the block.
In the video the Spree is dead cold (and the loudest I have heard it).

This top end worth it on Fleabay?
http://www.ebay.com/itm/HONDA-NQ50D-SPR ... 3372f021c2

Or more likely able to get away with just the piston and rings without jug
http://www.ebay.com/itm/Honda-Spree-NQ5 ... 336a7a4d2b

I'm thinking you guys have a better source though

the way to know what direction your going to go is pull the cylinder and see what it looks like inside. then check with calipers the diameter of the cylinder and check ring end gap with just the ring in the cylinder in 3 areas and caliper the piston. you can go the the section on this forum where the manuals are and see what the maintenance specs are for your bike then go from there. or you can buy that cylinder on ebay since its a bigger cc bore, cut the head to match the bore size and check compression.

bakaracer wrote:the way to know what direction your going to go is pull the cylinder and see what it looks like inside. then check with calipers the diameter of the cylinder and check ring end gap with just the ring in the cylinder in 3 areas and caliper the piston. you can go the the section on this forum where the manuals are and see what the maintenance specs are for your bike then go from there. or you can buy that cylinder on ebay since its a bigger cc bore, cut the head to match the bore size and check compression.

Shoot, didn't realize the jug in that ebay link was bigger. Though it was just a stock replacement
Maybe I'll just go with the piston kit.

What should the compression be on this bad boy?
Thinking I'll check that as it should be a good indication if the rings are shot.

*Edit*
Nevermind, did a quick search here and found
Spree: the minimum is 114 PSI. 90 or even 100 PSI are low per the spec in the manual

I had an intermittent ticking on my 87 Aero 50 at idle when I bought it. Pulled the oil metering pump and found the gear was heavily worn.

You could try premixing it for safety, remove the OMP and temporarily plug the hole in the block to see if the click goes away. If it does, you could grind the OMP gear down and start running premix.

fatcharlie wrote:I had an intermittent ticking on my 87 Aero 50 at idle when I bought it. Pulled the oil metering pump and found the gear was heavily worn.

You could try premixing it for safety, remove the OMP and temporarily plug the hole in the block to see if the click goes away. If it does, you could grind the OMP gear down and start running premix.

hmm.. good call.
I'll try this before ordering the top end.
Still gonna do a compression test in a few minutes though... I'm curious

Longest comp test in recorded history.

Results man... results.

Trafficjamz wrote:Longest comp test in recorded history.

Results man... results.

Can of worms....
SO... instead of doing a compression test FIRST like any normal person, I started to get into the sluggish acceleration issue (felt like a slipping clutch)
Pull off the cover and the belt is at min. specs. No biggy... I'll order one.
But no, I wanna dig deeper cause that's what I do. haha

The clutch was indeed slipping as the outer clutch pulley (as they call it) was really blue and discolored. This is obviously from excessive heat.
I pull the belt and pull the clutch. Do measurements and the outer clutch pulley is a c*** hair from being within specs (lucky me they are discontinued... lol)
Upon clutch shoe inspection, they are almost unmeasurable they are so low. No biggy... they are $40 or so and still available (ps, I'm using www.cheapcycleparts.com) for my OEM stuff.

BUT... of course I need a HUGE nut (28mm I believe) just to pull this baby apart. Oh.. and a stinking clutch spring compressor (which I also don't have)

So.. no compression test until this is sorted (yes, I appear to be doing this backasswards) haha

Questions:
Should I just hit up Harbor Frieght for these one time use tools? I hate spending huge money on specialty tools that I'm only going to use once. (28mm and compression tool)

indetrucks wrote:

Trafficjamz wrote:Longest comp test in recorded history.

Results man... results.

Can of worms....
SO... instead of doing a compression test FIRST like any normal person, I started to get into the sluggish acceleration issue (felt like a slipping clutch)
Pull off the cover and the belt is at min. specs. No biggy... I'll order one.
But no, I wanna dig deeper cause that's what I do. haha

The clutch was indeed slipping as the outer clutch pulley (as they call it) was really blue and discolored. This is obviously from excessive heat.
I pull the belt and pull the clutch. Do measurements and the outer clutch pulley is a c*** hair from being within specs (lucky me they are discontinued... lol)
Upon clutch shoe inspection, they are almost unmeasurable they are so low. No biggy... they are $40 or so and still available (ps, I'm using http://www.cheapcycleparts.com) for my OEM stuff.

BUT... of course I need a HUGE nut (28mm I believe) just to pull this baby apart. Oh.. and a stinking clutch spring compressor (which I also don't have)

So.. no compression test until this is sorted (yes, I appear to be doing this backasswards) haha

Questions:
Should I just hit up Harbor Frieght for these one time use tools? I hate spending huge money on specialty tools that I'm only going to use once. (28mm and compression tool)

Just get a big crescent wrench and stand on it with your feet. That's how I do 'em.

Trafficjamz wrote:

indetrucks wrote:

Trafficjamz wrote:Longest comp test in recorded history.

Results man... results.

Can of worms....
SO... instead of doing a compression test FIRST like any normal person, I started to get into the sluggish acceleration issue (felt like a slipping clutch)
Pull off the cover and the belt is at min. specs. No biggy... I'll order one.
But no, I wanna dig deeper cause that's what I do. haha

The clutch was indeed slipping as the outer clutch pulley (as they call it) was really blue and discolored. This is obviously from excessive heat.
I pull the belt and pull the clutch. Do measurements and the outer clutch pulley is a c*** hair from being within specs (lucky me they are discontinued... lol)
Upon clutch shoe inspection, they are almost unmeasurable they are so low. No biggy... they are $40 or so and still available (ps, I'm using http://www.cheapcycleparts.com) for my OEM stuff.

BUT... of course I need a HUGE nut (28mm I believe) just to pull this baby apart. Oh.. and a stinking clutch spring compressor (which I also don't have)

So.. no compression test until this is sorted (yes, I appear to be doing this backasswards) haha

Questions:
Should I just hit up Harbor Freight for these one time use tools? I hate spending huge money on specialty tools that I'm only going to use once. (28mm and compression tool)

Just get a big crescent wrench and stand on it with your feet. That's how I do 'em.

Serious?
You just wrap a crescent wrench around that nut and loosen it?
Will I expect a BOING or is it nothing that dramatic when it loosens?

And in re-install... I don't need to compress that spring to get the nut on?
I've never done it so I have no idea what to expect from that spring

I clamp the clutch down in a vice to do the initial loosening or final tightening.

Then I place it on the floor, step on it with both feet and remove the nut by hand.

Then slowly step off.

Trafficjamz wrote:I clamp the clutch down in a vice to do the initial loosening or final tightening.

Then I place it on the floor, step on it with both feet and remove the nut by hand.

Then slowly step off.

Okies.... gonna do that

i will post a video in a little bit to try and explain myself a little better.

here ya go