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1989 Elite E sb50 Quits when warm

Posted: Thu May 18, 2006 12:29 am
by prattj1
I got a new elite and cheacked my compression. It was at about 50psi, so I put some new rings on it. Everything looked really good, cylinder, piston, head, it all looked really good. I only replaced the rings as per manual and put a new headgasket on. I started it up and drove it around. Once it got warm (maybe 15 minutes) it started to sputter and die. The head bolts were not tightened down enough and had rattled loose. I retightened them to 9 ft/lbs. I then checked the compression for teh first time since the new rings. It was exactly where it was before 50ft/lbs. Could my gauge be wrong? Did I ruin my headgasket when the bolts rattled loose? Once it warms up it feels like it isnt getting enough gas. I checked the reed valve and they looked good. I thought it might be a vacuum leak so I sprayed starter fluid around all of the gaskets while it was running, no increase in rpm. The carb is super clean, I removed both the idle and main jets and cleaned every little hole. I took off the bystarter and put my finger over the hole, still dies. Take finger off hole, dies. I have a clean stock airfilter with all of the screws in it. I am always get a nice blue spark. is there any way to check to see if it is my headgasket? Thanks

Posted: Thu May 18, 2006 9:03 am
by Farfignugin
wait, compression is measured in psi, not ft/lbs.
Thats the only advice I have

Posted: Thu May 18, 2006 9:34 am
by mopedman
just get a new one there only like 5 bucks

Posted: Thu May 18, 2006 9:39 am
by darat
normaly mopeds dont have headgasket problems.

Posted: Thu May 18, 2006 10:38 am
by noiseguy
Jerry used to be adamant that you had to replace the head gasket EVERY TIME you pulled the head. I haven't had problems with this, your milage may vary.

Head bolt torque is 9-15 ft-lbs, by memory. You did replace the base gasket, right? When you check compression, are you opening the throttle all the way up?

The 15 minutes-to-die thing sounds like overheating. If it were 1-2 minutes I'd say the carb is gummed up. How does your plug look?

Posted: Thu May 18, 2006 12:16 pm
by prattj1
The plug looks like the end of a warm Hersey Kiss. DUH compression is in PSI. :oops: I have all of the engine cooling fans on. New base gasket.

Posted: Thu May 18, 2006 4:25 pm
by noiseguy
What kind of oil are you running? Did you verify that the oiler is working per the manual?

Posted: Thu May 18, 2006 8:46 pm
by prattj1
I am using Havoline TC-3W two cycle engine oil. I looked it up and it doesnt say it is injection oil. But it doesnt say it isnt either. "use in your motorcycle"

Posted: Fri May 19, 2006 12:31 am
by noiseguy
If it doesn't say injector it's probably not. If it starts easily (2-3 cranks) compression's probably fine too.

If I were you, I'd dump/clean the oil tank, dump/clean the lines and pump the best you can, and refill/bleed with known injector oil. About a 1 hour job. Check the manual for particulars.

May also want to swap plugs, and/or run a colder plug. Use the "extended operation" plug called out in the manual.

Posted: Fri May 19, 2006 11:13 pm
by prattj1
I took my oil pump out and drained it, what is the best way to "force" oil back into the out hole?

Posted: Sun May 21, 2006 12:46 am
by prattj1
New oil fixed it, thanks for your help guys

Posted: Sun May 21, 2006 4:35 pm
by darat
so it was the oil pump?

Posted: Mon May 22, 2006 9:38 am
by noiseguy
No, it was the crummy oil... I'm convinced that most of the the Spree we see with blown top ends were run on premix oil until they died.

Posted: Mon May 22, 2006 9:36 pm
by berreta22
remember that the ex marking on the piston is facing the right direction unless u never removed the piston to replace the rings.

Posted: Tue May 23, 2006 7:20 pm
by prattj1
I figured that marking out as soon as I put the cylinder down and it was facing the wrong direction. Learning through mistakes and the long way to everything.