Honda Spree and Elite 50 Forums

Any special rules about breaking in a new corsa and what oil is used? I'm waiting for mine to show up in the mail, and want to make sure I don't F it up.

This is what Polini says, "RUNNING IN: during the first 500 Km donÔÇÖt exceed the ┬¥ of the accelerator opening and
avoid to cover long upward runs putting with engine under strain.
GENERAL SUGGESTIONS: both during the running-in and after never try getting the
highest power before achieving the best running temperature. Bedding of the various parts
will be obtained after an average of about 500 km. We suggest to set up the engine, the
carburettor and the variator with great care. This kit has been studied for extreme
performance at high rev. Wrong calibration could compromise the engine performance.
We suggest using original Polini Motori spare parts only"

So don't exceed 3/4 throttle, i hear you're suppose to vary the revs and speed, not just 3/4 throttle on a straight road for 500km long. :p Correct jetting and good trans setup of course.

I'm going to be running a 24mm oko with pg long, and a zx trans setup with ruckus variator. Any suggestions on jetting to start with? Temps in central wisconsin are around 80s now.

VT Cycles says "Now on a OKO 24mm, we jet the carb on a 82cc Dio set up with a performance sport exhaust at #115 to #120 main. The Pilot at #40 to #45."
-Bear

Bear posted this in one of your previous threads, i would think around this ball park would be correct jetting.

Meejacob wrote:VT Cycles says "Now on a OKO 24mm, we jet the carb on a 82cc Dio set up with a performance sport exhaust at #115 to #120 main. The Pilot at #40 to #45."
-Bear

Bear posted this in one of your previous threads, i would think around this ball park would be correct jetting.

Any idea what oil should be used for break in? Do you use the same oil for break in as you would for the post break in running?

Use the oil you plan on running in the future.

runs full synthetic oil!!! use the same oil running.

just hassle to tune jettings and run differ brand oil 2 stroke.. Dont!

some oils are thicker and thin lubes

I've used Redline 100% synthetic ester based lubricants as long as I can remember but not never with a fresh top end as the lubricant is so good that it interferes with the seating of the rings to the bore. I usually run through a tank of whatever petroleum two stroke oil that I have on hand before switching back to Redline. This is based on three different Yamaha YZ250s, a Honda NSR50R, my current Honda SA50 Elite with Malossi 47mm (65cc) BBK , weedwacker, chainsaw, leaf blower and all my friends who've asked for help with their top ends over the years.

The bottle of Redline Two Stroke Racing Oil that I have in my hand directs the user to either use a petroleum based lubricant for the first 15 minutes (I assume racing applications) for breaking in the rings or Redline at 80% load for the same duration.

I once overheard a car road racer talking about how they attempted to break-in an engine on a dyno for an hour (IIRC) with Redline in the sump and the rings never seated so they had to change to conventional oil to complete the process. I guess they were judging the ring seal by the power output.

My three cents, don't use a synthetic for the first tank.

tlthehun wrote:I've used Redline 100% synthetic ester based lubricants as long as I can remember but not never with a fresh top end as the lubricant is so good that it interferes with the seating of the rings to the bore. I usually run through a tank of whatever petroleum two stroke oil that I have on hand before switching back to Redline. This is based on three different Yamaha YZ250s, a Honda NSR50R, my current Honda SA50 Elite with Malossi 47mm (65cc) BBK , weedwacker, chainsaw, leaf blower and all my friends who've asked for help with their top ends over the years.

The bottle of Redline Two Stroke Racing Oil that I have in my hand directs the user to either use a petroleum based lubricant for the first 15 minutes (I assume racing applications) for breaking in the rings or Redline at 80% load for the same duration.

I once overheard a car road racer talking about how they attempted to break-in an engine on a dyno for an hour (IIRC) with Redline in the sump and the rings never seated so they had to change to conventional oil to complete the process. I guess they were judging the ring seal by the power output.

My three cents, don't use a synthetic for the first tank.

That BS about synthetics not letting rigs seat is total pure crap spread by those who have no clue. * the new vettes come with synthetic in the crankcase from the factory.

Bear45-70 wrote:

tlthehun wrote:I've used Redline 100% synthetic ester based lubricants as long as I can remember but not never with a fresh top end as the lubricant is so good that it interferes with the seating of the rings to the bore. I usually run through a tank of whatever petroleum two stroke oil that I have on hand before switching back to Redline. This is based on three different Yamaha YZ250s, a Honda NSR50R, my current Honda SA50 Elite with Malossi 47mm (65cc) BBK , weedwacker, chainsaw, leaf blower and all my friends who've asked for help with their top ends over the years.

The bottle of Redline Two Stroke Racing Oil that I have in my hand directs the user to either use a petroleum based lubricant for the first 15 minutes (I assume racing applications) for breaking in the rings or Redline at 80% load for the same duration.

I once overheard a car road racer talking about how they attempted to break-in an engine on a dyno for an hour (IIRC) with Redline in the sump and the rings never seated so they had to change to conventional oil to complete the process. I guess they were judging the ring seal by the power output.

My three cents, don't use a synthetic for the first tank.

That BS about synthetics not letting rigs seat is total pure crap spread by those who have no clue. * the new vettes come with synthetic in the crankcase from the factory.

I'm certain that the chemical engineers at Redline Oil are much farther from clueless than you are, at least when it comes to lubricants and their effects on engines. YTF would they tell people NOT to use their oil?

Perhaps GM (and Honda, Toyota, BMW (I imagine others) who are filling with "synthetic" at the factory), um, I don't know, maybe runs the engines for a bit at the factory on conventional oil to seat the rings?

tlthehun wrote:

Bear45-70 wrote:

tlthehun wrote:I've used Redline 100% synthetic ester based lubricants as long as I can remember but not never with a fresh top end as the lubricant is so good that it interferes with the seating of the rings to the bore. I usually run through a tank of whatever petroleum two stroke oil that I have on hand before switching back to Redline. This is based on three different Yamaha YZ250s, a Honda NSR50R, my current Honda SA50 Elite with Malossi 47mm (65cc) BBK , weedwacker, chainsaw, leaf blower and all my friends who've asked for help with their top ends over the years.

The bottle of Redline Two Stroke Racing Oil that I have in my hand directs the user to either use a petroleum based lubricant for the first 15 minutes (I assume racing applications) for breaking in the rings or Redline at 80% load for the same duration.

I once overheard a car road racer talking about how they attempted to break-in an engine on a dyno for an hour (IIRC) with Redline in the sump and the rings never seated so they had to change to conventional oil to complete the process. I guess they were judging the ring seal by the power output.

My three cents, don't use a synthetic for the first tank.

That BS about synthetics not letting rigs seat is total pure crap spread by those who have no clue. * the new vettes come with synthetic in the crankcase from the factory.

I'm certain that the chemical engineers at Redline Oil are much farther from clueless than you are, at least when it comes to lubricants and their effects on engines. YTF would they tell people NOT to use their oil?

Perhaps GM (and Honda, Toyota, BMW (I imagine others) who are filling with "synthetic" at the factory), um, I don't know, maybe runs the engines for a bit at the factory on conventional oil to seat the rings?

Yeah, right they run the engine at the factory then change the oil........NOT!

They do run the engines at the factory, but after complete assembly, they start it up, they do some checks, they run it up to check for speedo accuracy, all systems check, exhaust emissions, then they shut it down to go through water leak test, they drive it to repair if needed, then to a staging area for loading on transports.

They do not change the oil after it has been filled. I know. I worked 20+ years at automobile factories, AMC, Chrysler and Mitsubishi.

zuphilius wrote:They do run the engines at the factory, but after complete assembly, they start it up, they do some checks, they run it up to check for speedo accuracy, all systems check, exhaust emissions, then they shut it down to go through water leak test, they drive it to repair if needed, then to a staging area for loading on transports.

They do not change the oil after it has been filled. I know. I worked 20+ years at automobile factories, AMC, Chrysler and Mitsubishi.

How many AMC's and Chryslers went back for repair?

I've watched this process on a TV show. It's always nice to have someone who's actually been there to debunk theories. Nothing worse than ignorant arguments with opinion only for the defense.