Honda Spree and Elite 50 Forums

Hey,
so I am about to attempt my first paint job for the honda elite that I just picked up the other week. I am a serious N00b here so please bare with me, any and all help is greatly appreciated.

I'm going to be using all krylon spray paint for plastic (2 coats Primer, 3 coats color, 1 coat gloss finish) products. I also bought wet/dry paper ranging from 400-800, and some turtle wax.

It originally was white, painted to blue and the guy I bought it from repainted it with what he told me to be primer and Kryon Paint as well. Unfortunately, he did not do a very good job as the paint is starting to already come off.

I was wondering, since I am going to be repainting it the same exact Blue color, could I just add another coat of the blue with finish on top of that? OR Do I need to reapply brand new primer on top of it, along with fresh coats and clear finish. If that is the case, Should I remove the current blue paint and primer that was painted on the scooter and start from scratch? If so, what products should I purchase to remove?

Thanks guys

the more work you put into the better the job will come out.

more coats, more stages of different grit sand paper etc

based on what you said your willing to do maybe try and sand the old paint off some if you can, and id do more than 1 clear coat /wet sand

there are ALOT of youtube videos showing this process on bikes cars etc

mmeadows wrote:
based on what you said your willing to do maybe try and sand the old paint off some if you can, and id do more than 1 clear coat /wet sand

there are ALOT of youtube videos showing this process on bikes cars etc

I bought 10 sheets of 400, 600 and 800 wet/dry paper. I plan on using 400 before primer, 600 after primer, and 800 after paint.
Do you reccomend sanding down after the clear coat has dried as well? if so, should i go up to 1000 or could i stick with 800?

Thanks!

you need 1500 or 2000 to sand the clear

paulpauly7 wrote:you need 1500 or 2000 to sand the clear

thank you. doing 2 coats of clear, should i sand in between coats or afterwards?

after and do 3 or 4 coats make sure your parts are warm like with a hairdryer or heat gun and the paint in the can it flows better if its warm and sits on your parts better when they are warm goodluck

motormike wrote:Swell job of giving good, sound recommendations to the handsomedevil27.
Well done to the down under.

what does that even mean? lol

handsomedevil: like i said the more your willing to put in the better it will come out. if your willing to do 2 coats then do 2 but if you have it in you for 4 coats then do 4 coats. i personally dry sand with 500-800 and then wet sand my last color layer. all clear coats will be wet sanded. The final wet sand being the highest grit you can find. ( 800 simply will not do)

the best advice i can really give you for a high quality "can" job is to take your time. plan breaks and this taking multiple days. i know that sounds lame but if you get frustrated and start rushing your going to make it look like a normal spray paint job.

worry about wax later

It means that I acknowledge and agree with the advice that was given by all, especially pauly....

wow thanks guys. very helpful info here.

SO here is the gameplan: (if theres anything you think im doin wrong let a brother know )

1.) Wash all plastic parts with soap and water, Dry.
2.) Sand down surfaces with 400 dry paper and try to remove the terrible existing paint job that was put on this scooter. Wash/dry.
3) 3 coats of primer, then after 3rd coat DRY sand the parts with 800 paper. Wash/dry. (should i sand in between color coats??)
4.) 3 coats of color, then after 3rd coat WET sand with 800 paper. wash/dry.
5.) 3 coats of clear, then after 3rd coat WET sand with atleast 1500 paper.
6.) finished with a nice wax.

gonna spend 1 day each spreading coats out throughout the day for 3 coats of primer, 3 coats color, and 3 coats clear all using krylon plastic paint.

you better post the final product

What! No pictures of the finished job

I would like to follow this same process but need to see the tried and true results.

A good degreaser, tack cloth, and no dust environment is essential. Also 1500 and 2000 sandpaper for wetsanding the clear before rubbing compound, then polish for better results. Wait like maybe a week before sanding clear and polishing.

Good thread. A few things I didn't see mentioned that will improve outcome of novice paint work:

If painting in a garage or other hobby environment consider that masking the surrounding area not only keeps overspray off other things but also keeps dust, bugs, etc out of your paintjob. misting the floor (assuming concrete, etc) with water will keep dust down. consider building a miniature spray booth with plastic drop cloths hung from the rafters or a conduit frame.

wash with a good degreasing soap (not engine degreaser) like dish soap (liquid so no scratches from powder) and don't be afraid to use white scotch-brites. use a tooth brush on all tabs and crevices. don't ignore the backside. dirt and gunk hiding there will magically migrate into your paint.

sanding blocks are better than hand sanding for a uniform surface. can buy them or make them. a 4" square of 2x4 with paper stapled on works.

sand in two directions. first go one way, say left-to-right, then go another, say up-and-down. do not go in circles, no matter what mr miagi says.

use the existing paint like a guide coat: sand with 400-600 dry on blocks and where the paint wears through = high spots and where the paint isn't touched = low spots. sand with blocks until the surface feels uniform. don't let your eyes fool you.

definitely use a grease remover and tack cloths. wipe till a white rag remains clean.

let color coats flash off between coats but no sanding should be needed unless you wait too long between coats (more than the flash time which is typically 10-40 minutes depending). in that case sand with 600-800 wet.

so long as the finished color surface is free from runs, fisheyes, debris, etc I'd clear over it without sanding. if you have any problems and need to sand them out i'd let the color cure a few days (assuming it's summer time there as it is here. wait longer in cooler temps).

wet sand clear with 1500+. finer grits take longer but are easier for a novice to use without damage.

do NOT wax or polish until the clear is fully cured. I'd wait a month. Keep the scooter clean in this time, washing with mild detergent after rides but nothing with polish or wax in it. this excludes most "car wash" soaps. I use plain ajax liquid dish soap.

If you polish too soon the finish won't be fully hardened and get cloudy or smear.*

If you wax too soon the finish won't have finished out-gassing and you'll choke it with wax preventing it frrom curing.*

*Especially true of aerosol and premixed products. They're not activated with hardeners/reducers so they'll never be as hard as 2k products.

Its not about the paint but the color of the primer that makes the paint match, I have rattle can paint down....