Page 1 of 2
premix brand and ratio?
Posted: Thu Nov 16, 2006 7:51 pm
by veloc1ty
I've just rebuilt my 86' spree and having problems starting it. I don't want to worry about the oil and oil pump so I'm going to just run premix for now. I've got some motorcycle premix but it seems too think and it's 50:1, i think i need 32:1. Is 32:1 right and any brands I should look for that work best in scooters? I just want to get this thing running. Thanks in advance
Re: premix brand and ratio?
Posted: Fri Nov 17, 2006 3:26 am
by cannon3731
veloc1ty wrote:I've just rebuilt my 86' spree and having problems starting it. I don't want to worry about the oil and oil pump so I'm going to just run premix for now. I've got some motorcycle premix but it seems too think and it's 50:1, i think i need 32:1. Is 32:1 right and any brands I should look for that work best in scooters? I just want to get this thing running. Thanks in advance
I did the samething for my first tank of gas on a new engine. I mixed mine 32:1 with honda gn2
Posted: Fri Nov 17, 2006 10:24 am
by Farfignugin
make sure if you run just premix, that you take off the oil pump and plug it up, along with the hose connection to the intake.
Posted: Fri Nov 17, 2006 4:37 pm
by veloc1ty
thanks for the replys, i just picked up some non-synthetic 2 stroke oil, that i will be trying in later. Is 32:1 better than 50:1 for breaking in an engine? Thanks for any replys, this spree is so hard to get running. Also, i picked up some starting fluid, is that ok to use right now?
Posted: Sat Nov 18, 2006 10:55 pm
by MySpree
blows the engine in the long run....
Posted: Sat Nov 18, 2006 11:37 pm
by veloc1ty
premix does? I'm just using premix for now so i don't have to worry about the oil pump at the moment. I finally got it started last night and ran it a lot today.
Posted: Sat Nov 18, 2006 11:40 pm
by MySpree
no starting fluid, and you need the injecter to be in the engine, if your not useing it or not it has to be there. if its not your changeing the contense of the crankcase and messing it up badly. also you cannot just take out the shaft, you need to grind the teeth of the shaft to stop it from spinning, ( and burnging it up running it dry ) and keep the engine case at as close to normal pressure for optimal rideing.
Posted: Sun Nov 19, 2006 12:43 am
by veloc1ty
i know the starting fluid wasn't the best idea, but it was my last resort to get this thing running. I only used a little and also the oil pump is hooked up and fully attached i just don't have any oil in the tank.
Posted: Sun Nov 19, 2006 2:32 pm
by MySpree
dont run it try, youll seize the oil pump and then seize the engine.... or strip ouut the crank....
Posted: Thu Jan 18, 2007 8:04 pm
by taylornc50
iv got a 1977 honda exsprees i want to run pre mix because theres alwayes bubbles in the oil line even when the tan is full so do i have to take out the injector or leav it in ????
Posted: Thu Jan 18, 2007 8:44 pm
by darat
but i thought that you were selling it. Just run the oil pump the air bubbles will come out.
Posted: Thu Jan 18, 2007 8:47 pm
by mopedman
myspree....... it will not blow up in the long run........
Posted: Thu Jan 18, 2007 9:14 pm
by taylornc50
i have bin but they keep coming back and now theres a oil leek i think therea hole in the oil line im not sure hard to say
Posted: Thu Jan 18, 2007 10:15 pm
by MySpree
ehhhhhhem!!!!!!!! starting fluid will slowly blow th engine after usein to much, the starting fluid kills all the oil in the cylinder for a certain amount of time, for the time the cylinder is not lubricated scoring the piston and cylinder a very little amount, after enough scoring, you will lose bottom end. then the top end will blow. for the oil pump, if you plan on running premix you cannot run your pump dry, it will seize, don't believe me go on forumshawaii.net, most of them run 72cc+ bores, after 72cc, you cannot use the oil pump, considering they know what there talking about since there bikes are still running i would listen to them. now i bet some of you are thinking that just run it in a loop. put some oil in the pump and line and run the inlet to the outlet and it will go in a loop... WRONG. it will burn up, run out, and since now it is getting no air or lubrication it will seize faster... NEXT there are people that think, hey the shaft is removable from the injector, why not take it off? well the answer is that you are changing the crank cases volume by doing that, that will make worse acceleration, mid-range, and top end... pretty much screws over all your performance, and no matter what you do, no amount of tuning will fix that. so what you have to do to minimize the damage and keep the case volume and close to the same as possible is grind the teeth of the end that spins in the crank. this will not allow it to spin, but will keep your case volume as close as you possibly can. of you have any questions please ask them. if you are not sure if you might want to switch back the injector in the future i have loads of blown pump shafts that i will send for free pre-ground so all you need to do is drop it in and your good to go.

Posted: Thu Jan 18, 2007 10:16 pm
by MySpree
talor, you know i have oil lines, and it has bubbles because since thats not the original oil plug it doesn't breath. so you need to drill some holes in it.