Honda Spree and Elite 50 Forums

NAME THAT PART
If you all could help me out with the proper names of these components (Especially the one to the right )
From Left to Right Here's My Guess
Rectifier - Mounts on the Frame by the shock mount.
CDI - Slides in the rubber dealyo on the battery box
Relay - Slides on a tab on the battery box
Relay - Was dangling on the harness
Uhh Yea Flasher? - Not sure what this is? Bolts inside the rear of the frame i guess to be grounded then the ground wire to do what? Not sure lol!




Thanks peeps!

One of the two relays is for the turn signals, so it is a flasher.
Item #5 is a ballast resistor.

#1 Regulator Rectifier - It converts alternating current to direct current.

#2 CDI - It stores an electrical charge and increases the power of the spark in the spark plug.

#3 Turn Signal Relay - The electrical apparatus that governs your turn signal.

#4 Starter Relay - Works by completing the circuit that brings electric current from a vehicle's battery to the starter motor.

#5 Delay Resistor - I could write a paragraph about this one. Basically it creates a delayed resistance since a constant would not work. It needs a time delay. Honda did their electrical homework and achieved the proper delay needed for this system. Its actual delay information isn't written anywhere. Maybe theres a device out there to test resistance delay? Either way, It has to do with keeping the electrical system happy.

Thanks all! So i assume it is ok to run the stock CDI with my build? Or should I consider getting a fancy Malossi or Stage6 one?

The mallossi one has the most aggresive curve I belive but gains are only in throttle response I belives. If you can find one used it would be good to grab and try out.

Save your cash The stock CDI's do not have a rev limiter like others do. That's the only reason I would ever buy a fancy orange one. Your stock CDI is capable of providing all the spark you would ever need for your build.

However, if your stock CDI ever reaches the end of its lifespan and youre forced to buy one, definitely get a Stage6 CDI. Looks like G9 has them on sale for $49 and the OEM unit is on Partzilla is $100! No brainer there. Just stay away from the generic $5 ebay junk "racing" ones. Might as well use a potato.

Meatball wrote: Might as well use a potato.

>>>>>

Ok here is another one.

Is this the FRONT Turn Signal Relay Flasher Dealyo? It's mounted on the gauge cluster.
The one Meatball referenced as #3 Relay, is his REAR Turn Signal Relay Flasher Dealyo?

This item DOES in fact produce the audible turn signal beep. However, its listed as a Turn Signal Relay on the parts sheets. I don't know if its anything more than a beeping device. Youd have to try your signals while its disconnected to see if they still function correctly. It will be trial and error: device or no device, wires left loose or connected in series, etc...Worst case scenario is you'll blow the fuse or the signals simply wont work/flash. Its good to have a few extra fuses handy just in case.

Please report back your findings. Id love to delete my annoying signal beep. Ive always thought it was way too loud while sitting at a red light.

My blinkers wont work without the noise contraption, ai never tried to by pass it but simply unplugging it made my blinkers stick. Now I do have a question to add on to this post. What if there is a way to wire up a low resitance led loop to the fuel sender to get a low fuel light? Im willing to buy the parts for it and soilder up a test if someone could point us in the right direction. I know it would involve an led and resistors. Possibly a relay of some sort, I have a base knowledge of eltronics, but if somone could figure the resistance on a gas tank at low for the led to kick on at it would make a perfect substitue to a gas gauge. Maybe even a adjustable unit with an knob to find that sweet spot.

Great idea jumps. Ive had to chase a gas gauge gremlin before when my gauge quit working. By connecting a multimeter to two of the leads on the sending unit, I was able to see the ohms increase/decrease while raising/lowering the float by hand. This revealed that the variable resistor was working properly. I agree that a "low fuel" indicator light would certainly be handy if you've removed your gauges like Titan and are "eyeballin" fuel level.

This system already exists in the "low oil" indicator light. You may be able to source the parts from there? Assuming the fuel and oil sending units both have the same variable resistance range.

I was thinking of buying one of these just to play with. https://www.aliexpress.com/item/12V-Unv ... 111.oCHuWC

Meatball wrote:Great idea jumps. Ive had to chase a gas gauge gremlin before when my gauge quit working. By connecting a multimeter to two of the leads on the sending unit, I was able to see the ohms increase/decrease while raising/lowering the float by hand. This revealed that the variable resistor was working properly. I agree that a "low fuel" indicator light would certainly be handy if you've removed your gauges like Titan and are "eyeballin" fuel level.

This system already exists in the "low oil" indicator light. You may be able to source the parts from there? Assuming the fuel and oil sending units both have the same variable resistance range.

I was thinking of buying one of these just to play with. https://www.aliexpress.com/item/12V-Unv ... 111.oCHuWC

Anyone with the 2 can take measurements for me> I do not have a multi meter.

To even get fancier....how bout an LED bulb that changes from green/yellow/red depending on fuel level? I have a battery charger that has an indicator light like this.

OK the #4 Turn Signal Relay in the first pic is the 84-86 with 2 pin. The Round one i have up front is the only one for the 87 which is 3 pin. I installed the 2 pin on the side of the battery box and my harness has no connectors for it lol. I was stumped until i remembered that the 85 donor had a bunch of parts that i kept, like the electrical components. Then learned about the 2 pin 3 pin differences by year.