Can someone confirm for me that my clutch pads are worn. I have no idea what they looked like when they were new, so I'm not sure how worn they are. The service manual states 1.5mm, but doesn't very well describe what actually gets measured...metal (shoe) to pad surface?
I 2nd that notion...plenty of meat left. Be sure to hit the inside of the bell with Brakleen while youre there. Any slippage youre getting might be belt also. Brakleen the front/rear pullies on the belt contact surfaces...CLEAN!
Id suggest a fresh belt but try the above process first before breaking out your wallet. Belt width can be checked with a caliper gauge. See service manual for acceptable service range.
Side note: belts CAN be within range but a belt that is old or has been slipping can be glazed and utterly useless. Dont waste your time trying to scuff up a glazed belt for grip...never works.
I need to find some new haters...the ones I have are starting to like me.
Swap reeds for 86-87' reeds, swap muffler for an unrestricted one, bump jet up to a #68, swap final drive for a 13T from an 86-87 and that will eliminate the Iowa restrictions.
The Cyclone one, is an 87'. Try finding an Iowa Edition in that year, much less, replacement parts. When I got the first one, I could only get it up to 23mph. Don't know what the second one did, it went straight from previous owner to the body shop for the guys to play with. I have an entire 86' Iowa Edition parts bike in my garage, along with tons of Iowa Edition upgrade stuff. Mufflers, reeds, intakes that I have been slowly porting out on my own, couple carbs, etc. I keep meaning to do the same with the 87' model year. Easier said then done. But anyways, in your case, best path for that slow relic is just remove the Iowa restrictions, a bit of tuning, and do 35+ all day.