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Making a Reed valve
Posted: Sun Jun 24, 2007 2:10 am
by Dac
ok so after 2-3 weeks of working my * off to get that d*** elite going i found the problem.
turns out the reed valve busted. half of the last of the 3 valves was gone. i called up a honda dealer by me and they said it would be around 35$!!!! and they have to order it
i made my own out of some thin thin metal i had in my yard.
it ran good for about a hour yesterday and a good 5 hours today(it was a riding day) and coming home it spit sputtered spat and died
i pushed it home,(it was dark out and i dont have a garage to work in) with out opening it up i already knew my home made s*** broke.
Is there any one thing i should try to make a reed valve out of? or is the 35$ really worth it?
Posted: Sun Jun 24, 2007 9:19 am
by Gamemedic
You cant "make" a reed. It is made of highly treated spring steel or plastic. The one you made is prob chewed up in you motor after it broke. You cant just "rig" these things, 2 strokes are very finicky you have to use the right parts. 35 bucks is nothing, just order the right parts. You could also get one after-market the guys around here will tell you a good place to shop.
Posted: Sun Jun 24, 2007 1:32 pm
by chevyguyjay
yea, spend the money and get the right thing.

dont be like the other guy on here tring to glue his carb on.

Posted: Sun Jun 24, 2007 2:05 pm
by Dac
ok got out side today i took mine apart, it looked fine but ever so slightly bent
i think if i can get out to a dealer i will buy one but the closes dealer is about 45 minutes away(car) and my family dont go places offen, so is there anything i can use to 'red-neck' it till i can get out to one?
Posted: Sun Jun 24, 2007 4:29 pm
by mousewheels
Check out in the Advanced technical docs on this site. Theres a book by Jennings that talks about 2 stroke tuning. Included is a section on reed valves.
I think the metal ones are generally stainless steel, but don't have a clue what alloy or other details you'd want. IThe Jennings book covers the stress and failure modes, along what it might mean if a reed breaks from fatigue and your engine eats it.
Posted: Sun Jun 24, 2007 4:48 pm
by noiseguy
Check VT Cycles, they may be able to hook you up with something.
Do not make your own reed valves!
Posted: Mon Jun 25, 2007 4:40 pm
by MySpree
ill see what i have.
Posted: Mon Jun 25, 2007 5:36 pm
by Dac
i got lucky, i had a dentist appointment today right by a honda dealer so i went in and order one
its kinda stupid that i have to buy the hole set up not just the metal piece but what ever. it was 31$ all together, it should be coming in wensday
Posted: Mon Jun 25, 2007 5:40 pm
by chevyguyjay
Posted: Wed Jun 27, 2007 12:23 am
by W/C
Stock? what year, I would give you some for free,just pay shipping, or there's better options like boyesen
Posted: Wed Jun 27, 2007 4:27 pm
by Pygmaelion
Take it from me, there's no substitute for the real reed.
And screwing with them (trying to outsmart Mr. Honda's team of engineers) by bending the reed cage, or tinkering with different lengths is a sure way to get bits of reed into your bottom end. I bent my cage, hoping to get better "range of motion"... So much for guesswork and pseudoscience.
Once they're in there, if you're lucky, the reed only let go a tiny speck, which got welded to your head before you stalled. If you're from planet Earth, then you've got to take off your top end, and get out all the pieces. If you ignore it, then you'll find those pieces when you replace the bearings , or the wrist pin... which is frakked up because it got a bit of reed valve stuck in it.
I'm sure you get the picture. Take it from me, if it's 35 bucks for a part you never ever have to replace again, even if it's the whole assembly, it beats the heck out of cracking the case to replace everything inside it.