Honda Spree and Elite 50 Forums

I have a "85 Spree. I've been trying to get it started all day.

I cleaned out my carb (jets, etc - everything is good and the cylinder is getting gas).

Not sure where to set the three screws. I read from a different post to have the Top one set at 2 turns out, the middle set at 1.75 turns out. The bottom screw i have set to allow the gas to barely drain, before i had it pretty loose and the gas was just pouring out. ( are these the right settings)

I've been squirting Sea Foam all up in the engine. I took the cylinder head off and have been trying to clean out the cylinder by rotating the piston to the bottom of the stroke and filling up the engine with Sea foam. After kicking the starter and letting as much of the crap fly out the top of the cylinder and out the muffler exit (i took off the muffler also -plan on de carbonizing by setting over a camp fire flame, good idea???) While doing this i noticed the sea foam would steam on contact. This lead me to see that the oil was not pumping through that little oil pump connected to the engine block.

I took the oil pump off of the engine and figured out how it works. The oil is flowing fine from the oil tank, and that nozzle is not blocked. Also the oil is flowing nicely into the engine through the pump. I filled up the base of the engine with the 2 stroke oil i had (i think i should of put SA -30 or something but figured some oil is better then none- if you know the right kind please share ...). The problem seems to be with the out nozzle it is completely blocked and seems to be blocked good. I have hit that thing with so much pressure air, you'd think i would have cut through metal. Not backwards or from the inside of the pump, no flow. Also i even tried sucking on the nozzle, while twisting the crank shaft that turns the pump --still nothing.

So i figure i either need a new oil pump thinger, or a night soaking in some Sea Foam could possibly loosen something up.

Any tips for getting these bad boys started. This thing has been sitting out side for years. I seem to have good compression and a couple times got the cylinder to fire momentarily before getting wetted out. After drying the cylinder i noticed the oil problem.

Ill be posting some pics soon , Thanks
Mario

Holy crap, dude. First of all, the bottom screw is the bowl drain. That should be all the way in. The other two, start setting based on the manual. Drain all the crap out of the crankcase. You might have to take the motor off and turn it upside down to dump it all. You can't test the oiler without the motor running. Dump all the crap out, tighten the bowl screw, bleed the oil lines then try to crank it. Make sure you have an airbox attached with a decent air filter.

Do that, then come back and tell us the results.

-aseigler

I got it running - hits the high 20's. Made myself an air filter out of some packing foam, it works nice. Screwed in the float screw and adjusted the throttle body setting. Not sure on the numbering of the piston; which notch is the 1st, being the leanist setting?

Any way i premixed my gas a little richer then 50:1 to be safe. After running the engine for a little bit of time i'll unplug my oil line that goes into the carburetor and there is NO oil flow. I really am stumped and figure i need a knew oil injector. There seems to be absolutely NO flow of air or liquid through that outlet nozzle and i don't know what else i can do to try and loosen it up.

I didn't know there was an oil line that went into the carburetor...

He means the manifold, do a plug chop and get the right filter they run around 5 dollars.

The top notch (with needle pointed down) is leanest, but that only affects idle/low speed mixture.

I assume you have completely bled the oil lines (both of them)? Make sure the bolt that holds on the oil pump is tight, they tend to back themselves out on occassion. With both oil lines full, you should get about a drop of oil coming out of the small line where it connects to the intake manifold every 10 seconds or so. Make sure you hold your finger or something over the hole on the intake while doing this, otherwise you will be leaning the mixture out very badly. Personally, I replace all my fuel and oil lines with Tygon, that way I can see the movement of the fuel or oil and not have to guess whether there is anything happening.

-aseigler

I did a plug chop with a new NGK plug (i have a "85 and i used a BPR6HSA). It turned out to be pretty white around the insulator. This makes since, because the plug burnt my finger on trying to remove it. The engine got really really hot just with a spin around the block. I held it wide open for no more then 20 seconds, 2 times. After it gets so hot, the spree won't start back up until it cools down.

Also it kicks out alot of smoke. I think the oil injector is actually working because i didn't have the line completely bled that goes into the *manifold and i have a clear line. After running it for a little bit the line was completely full of oil.

I assumed the thing was running rich. It smokes alot and i added about 3.2 ounces of oil to a full tank of gas (that should be alittle richer then 50:1). Plus the oil injector is on tight and if that is working also, i can't see why it is running rich.

What should i have the middle and top screws of the carb set at, or give me a ball park? Also would a K&N air filter for a V8 chevy help out (see my other post in the performace forum)?

Do you think my make shift air filter is to blame? too much air flow?

CharlotteSpreeRider wrote:The top notch (with needle pointed down) is leanest, but that only affects idle/low speed mixture.

-aseigler

No the screws affect idle/low speed and top speed a hair, the needle is for mid/high range adjustment. Could be filter leaning it out, that or somebody drilled holes in the air box. Just dont run it till you get the lean issues sorted out.

the box is intact. I'll tell ya i was afraid the thing was going to seize up on me when hitting it wide open and i was going to flip over the handle bars (maybe i should wear a helmet on my future test runs).

What else should i do to figure out the leaning out problem?

I'd like to just go up to the auto store and get that V8 Chevy K&N filter if it won't hurt anything. what ya think?

I got it to hit 30, but i felt i was pushing it too much. I'm also considering throwing the muffler in a fire and drilling the 2 baffles out.

Also i want to go up and get a 1/2 in automotive belt. Will this improve the top end speed?

Thanks for all of the direction,
Mario

mlucia10 wrote:the box is intact. I'll tell ya i was afraid the thing was going to seize up on me when hitting it wide open and i was going to flip over the handle bars (maybe i should wear a helmet on my future test runs).

What else should i do to figure out the leaning out problem? New filter

I'd like to just go up to the auto store and get that V8 Chevy K&N filter if it won't hurt anything. what ya think? Wont help, most people cant even get them working after rejetting (you must rejet) and people who have made high flow filters work dont get any improvement.

I got it to hit 30, but i felt i was pushing it too much. I'm also considering throwing the muffler in a fire and drilling the 2 baffles out. yea, do that

Also I want to go up and get a 1/2 in automotive belt. Will this improve the top end speed? Yes, but with an otherwise sock motor you will be pushing the thing to get it going, intake cleanup (maifold de restriction and port cleanup which requires splitting the case), muffler mod, head milled .020 and raising the exhaust port about a ring width will be necessary to get good take off before trying to re gear it and take away take off, some stronger clutch springs would also help.

Thanks for all of the direction,
Mario

See bolded.