Honda Spree and Elite 50 Forums

The fuel gauge on my Spree (1985 model just purchased used) is stuck
at full (power off). Has anyone had any luck taking these apart and fixing them?

Does not move at all so its a mechanical issue... off the gimbal or something like that.

Thanks

When you turn the scooter off, the gauge doesn't move. It stays in the same place.

jstone wrote:When you turn the scooter off, the gauge doesn't move. It stays in the same place.

Ah, good. I was worried mine was messed up. I thought the same about the station wagon I got since it's gauge stays up, but it's also supposed to. Heh..

My tank was near empty and still it said full to the max. Also, the needle should at least bounce around a bit when riding. Mine is frozen.

How does the sender in the tank work There must be some kind of a float. It looks like it can be removed easy enough to test it.

Would it still read correctly if the battery was removed or go down to empty?

Yeah, I'd like to know this too. My gauge is stuck at halfway no matter how much is in the tank.

Not sure about Sprees but I took the gauge/float out of my Aero gas tank. It was the other round plug (besides the cap) that had some wires coming out of it.

I was planning on getting the rust off of mine at some point. It doesn't look like something you could easily take apart. Or, more accurately, you could probably get it apart, but back together is another story.

Could the float arm be rusted where it hinges which might keep it from moving correctly? Just a guess.

i have extra floats if any one needs one

If the gauge stays put when you disconnect the battery power then I'd say it cannot be the float or sender unit.

The gauge should drop to empty with no power applied... IMHO.

Will do some research this weekend to find out more and report back my results.

I fixed my fuel gauge this weekend.

Remove the seat, the rear luggage rack and the two side panels to get to the motor area.

The fuel gauge sender unit that tells the gauge how much gas is in the tank is located behind the fill port on top of the tank.

There are two wire connectors about 10" down from the sender unit. If you disconnect these with the key turned ON you can test your gauge.

When disconnected and power applied the gauge should drop to Empty. If you short the wire connections going down the frame (and to the gauge) the needle should rise all the way to Full. Breaking the connection at any point during the rise or fall and the needle should stop at that point and stay there... even if the key is now turned off.

If this all happens then your gauge is working correctly and your problem has to be the sender unit inside the tank. There is a bayonet-style ring that secures it to the tank. Using a wooden dowel (to avoid causing sparks) tap it with a mallet to rotate it off. Remove the sender unit with the float (looks like a fat * sausage) and see if it moves freely.

You can reconnect it to the circuit and retest it outside of the tank, now.

If it does not cause the needle to raise and lower as you raise and lower the float (remember to turn the key switch ON) then the sender is bad. Mine was just stuck a bit and worked fine after I moved it up and down a few times.

Also, check to see that the float is level with the top of the locking ring. If it is bent it will not indicate correctly.

I have the same problem with the gauge not moving at all and would like to test it as you described. What do you mean by "If you short the wire connections going down the frame (and to the gauge) the needle should rise all the way to Full" . Are you saying to touch the ends of the wires together?

Yes, that's correct.

Disconnect the two wires that lead from the top of the gas tank. Then short the two wires (touch them together... you may need a paper clip to do this as they are covered by plastic insulators) that go down the frame to the gauge.

With the key turned on, the needle should go all the way to FULL.