Honda Spree and Elite 50 Forums

TDFStudios wrote:Hey guys, I ran across these tips for making a faster Honda Spree. I believe they came from these forums so I wanted to run them by you and see if anyone has attempted them or if you have any warnings for me. I work at a racing shop and could easily do all these mods myself in an afternoon, but would like to know if you guys see any foreseeable problems with them.

1. Remove the head and have about 60 thousandths shaved off. 20 bucks labor and 6 bucks for a new head gasket. This will increase your compression for more power WRONG NUMBERS! .020 IS THE MAX!

2. Take a dremel to the intake manifold and open up the restriction, you will see it when you remove the manifold. This will increase air flow, more top end power More power all around, I have done this.

3. File about 1/16 inch off the front inside pulley half on the belt drive. This will slightly increase the drive ratio for a higher top end Same thing can be accomplished by installing a 1/2" auto belt instead of the slighly narrower 11mm stock belt, this only works because the trans of a spree is half variable (wider belt spreads rear pulley which ups gearing and the belt rides higher on the front pulley)

4. Buy a size 70 main jet and install it in the carburetor costs about 6-10 bucks at your local Honda dealer. You will need this if you go to an after market air filter assembly to insure proper air/fuel ratio Any air filter other than the stock one unmodded almost never works

5. Buy the chrome topped cotton filter element K&N oil breather cap for a Chevy v-8. It costs about 12 bucks and it makes a perfect after market air filter. It fits right on the rubber tube that goes to the carburetor. You will have to remove some off the old air filter assembly though. This combined with the jet gives you more top end power and RPMs. See #5 comment

6. Drill out the exhaust. That relieves some back pressure for more available power. Works good on a spree, drill 2 baffel plates by shoving a drill bit up the exhaust tip.

TDFStudios wrote:
1. Remove the head and have about 60 thousandths shaved off. 20 bucks labor and 6 bucks for a new head gasket. This will increase your compression for more power

Kenny_McCormic wrote:

TDFStudios wrote:Hey guys, I ran across these tips for making a faster Honda Spree. I believe they came from these forums so I wanted to run them by you and see if anyone has attempted them or if you have any warnings for me. I work at a racing shop and could easily do all these mods myself in an afternoon, but would like to know if you guys see any foreseeable problems with them.

1. Remove the head and have about 60 thousandths shaved off. 20 bucks labor and 6 bucks for a new head gasket. This will increase your compression for more power WRONG NUMBERS! .020 IS THE MAX!

2. Take a dremel to the intake manifold and open up the restriction, you will see it when you remove the manifold. This will increase air flow, more top end power More power all around, I have done this.

3. File about 1/16 inch off the front inside pulley half on the belt drive. This will slightly increase the drive ratio for a higher top end Same thing can be accomplished by installing a 1/2" auto belt instead of the slighly narrower 11mm stock belt, this only works because the trans of a spree is half variable (wider belt spreads rear pulley which ups gearing and the belt rides higher on the front pulley)

4. Buy a size 70 main jet and install it in the carburetor costs about 6-10 bucks at your local Honda dealer. You will need this if you go to an after market air filter assembly to insure proper air/fuel ratio Any air filter other than the stock one unmodded almost never works

5. Buy the chrome topped cotton filter element K&N oil breather cap for a Chevy v-8. It costs about 12 bucks and it makes a perfect after market air filter. It fits right on the rubber tube that goes to the carburetor. You will have to remove some off the old air filter assembly though. This combined with the jet gives you more top end power and RPMs. See #4 comment

6. Drill out the exhaust. That relieves some back pressure for more available power. Works good on a spree, drill 2 baffel plates by shoving a drill bit up the exhaust tip.

See bolded

TDFStudios wrote:So how could I rework these to work?

1) Shaving the head. I could easily do this at work on the mill. What would be the max amount of material I could take off and not run into any issues?Just make sure you take a small amount off of the top (so all the fins are marked up and a little flattened) before flipping it over, this will keep it level. then flip it over and mill off .020"

2) I assume by polishing the intake I would need to rejet?No polishing on the intake, you want it rough, use a dremel to smooth out the round to square transition in the intake manifold.

3) 1/2" Auto Belt? Would I just go to like an auto parts store and just look for a 1/2" wide automotive belt that is the same length as the current belt?Yes, maybe even a hair shorter.

4) What level of mods would require a jet change in your opinion? Any jet size suggestions other than the size 70 mentioned? I didnt need to rejet for the muffler and intake pipe mod but i like to run my pilot screw a little richer than the book says, Do a plug reading and go from there.

5) Blah!

6) I can see how shoving a drill bit up the exhaust can drill one hole... unless you move it around and drill two holes in the baffle plate? Am I just overthinking this procedure? there are several plates in a row in there, you need a long bit, stick it in and pull the trigger, you will hit a plate, after going though the first plate you will hit another, go though this one as well

7) BONUS: From your experience, does the intake/exhaust polish require any jet changes?Dont polish anything intake related( the rough surfaces keep the fuel atomized), I havent touched the jug or head yet.

noiseguy wrote:Where are those posted? Is that on the Spree Repairing site? If so, I need to talk with that guy about changing those.

TDFStudios wrote:Yeah, I had the website that mentioned it earlier today open but I can't seem to find it again at the moment. He does say not to do it on the website but still offers it as someone elses method for getting performance out of the bike.