Honda Spree and Elite 50 Forums

As some might remember from previous threads, I have had my spree rebuilt, and it's running really well... perhaps TOO well!

My bystarter is completely stuffed, all that's left is a little needle (pics attached)

I took that needle out because it was missingand running like crap, and after that it ran really well. I got told that it might be running lean and might seize again, so I put the needle back in. It runs pretty much the same as without the needle.

I did a plug chop, sort of. I run it at about half throttle for about 1 minutes, then cut the engine and pulled out the plug. Attached are the results. If the picture doesn't show enough, I'd call it very dry and slightly rust coloured.

Any help would be awesome. I'm really keen to start riding it without crapping myself if the engine misses haha! I had a look at the plug chop chart but it didn't tell me if I was running lean or not.

And is the plug chop guide from the mopedarmy site pretty accurate? Is it OK to run a spree WOT on the stand?

you will need to test ride, get accurate reading plug chop. Not on stand alone running test!


need to buy another choke.

I actually did take it for a short ride, half throttle for about 300 metres, plug chop was exactly the same, in fact the plug chop pic above is from that ride.

From what I can tell, those bystarters are unavailable in New Zealand

need to get parts from honda spree from usa ebay market.

Maybe I will need to... but I don't have a lot of money and I am guessing it would cost a fair bit to get one sent to NZ.

I just took it for a quick ride up the road.

With the bystarter needle IN, the engine backfired at WOT and was losing power pretty bad.

I turned off the ignition and rolled in and checked out the plug, and it looks exactly the same as the one in the above pic.

OK: From the picture I can see that your thermal decoupler is upside-down (and maybe backwards as well.) That will cause problems, usually an air leak and poor WOT performance. Fix that first. While you're at it, check the o-rings and replace if needed.

With your bystarter in it's current condition, your engine does not have cold enrichment. If it still starts like that, you're fine. Put the bystarter pin into the carb and reassemble so you don't have a leak. How's the o-ring on that bystarter, anyway?

Plug chops need to be run with a new plug. If the engine's not running up to WOT that's another problem.

That bystarter of yours may be beyond help. Contact Greg at uspmale@yahoo.com. He can tell you what shipping to NZ will be for a rebuilt Spree carb (I would just get an entire carb.) Can't hurt to know your options.

I didn't realise the thermal decoupler could go on upside down. I'm pretty sure I got it around the right way but I'll check to make sure.

One thing I have just remembered. I lost the original decoupler so I took my current one off the other spree carby I have, which has a smaller fuel/air outlet. Would that cause issues?

I will post pics later on to show what they look like. Thanks for your help everyone, I'm sure I will have a 100% working spree sooner or later!

I'm assuming the thermal decoupler was the wine-coloured gasket thing? I did have that down upside down, but I had it around the right way. The o-ring didn't look THAT great but in saying that, it wasn't *. The o-ring on the carb itself looked OK as well.

I have decided that I am going to leave the brass tube and needle in the bystarter hole, and just forget that it exists! I don't think I will have any luck with it. As it stands currently, the bit in red (see below pic) sits in the bystarter hole, and the needle (in green) sits inside that. I'll just screw in the black plastic bit on top and leave it, as a way to plug the hole.

I just can't afford to get a new carb, and a second hand bystarter which may or may not work will cost me $80 which is a bit too expensive for me. I'd rather not rely on an electrical thing anyway.

So what I plan to do is this:

• 1. Find out if I am currently running lean or rich. (I suspect lean! )
  2. Once determined, can I buy a new main jet for the carby that is a different size, in order to adjust the mixture?

I borrowed the pic from the Bystarter Teardown. Hope that's ok.

I really demonstrated how useless I am at 2 stroke engine mechanics by putting on the gasket upside down! I really rely on you guys for help, so thanks for helping me out!

Thermal decoupler is the wine-colored piece. If you look, there is an arrow on it that points forward that you can see when it's correctly installed. Early visual poka-yoke.

If the bystarter is installed and pin pushed down, you'll be running at warm running conditions. You shouldn't need to upjet. You may have a vacuum leak, which will cause lean running, but for that you need to fix the vacuum leak. Your scooter may be harder to start in cold weather unless it is replaced.

For $100 you could probably buy a whole new carb.

If the o-rings are questionable, replace them. They are cheap and often cause problems.

Well, I just took it for a pretty long ride, about 7 miles, and it didn't falter once. I didn't ride it full throttle, just did 25mph which is OK for me.

Has anyone ever attached a thermometer to their spree and had the gauge in the instrument panel?

vinnie wrote:Well, I just took it for a pretty long ride, about 7 miles, and it didn't falter once. I didn't ride it full throttle, just did 25mph which is OK for me.

Has anyone ever attached a thermometer to their spree and had the gauge in the instrument panel?

Yes, you need a cylinder head temp gauge, I am sure other people will chime in that use them.

Hey alow, what does your spree run at? What is "too hot" for a spree engine? I will definitely get one!

vinnie wrote:Hey alow, what does your spree run at? What is "too hot" for a spree engine? I will definitely get one!

I have a 99 Elite (Dio) so I am unfamiliar with the Spree's as I have never owned one. What I do know about them I have learned from just hanging out here.