Honda Spree and Elite 50 Forums

Wont start:

Here is what I have done so far:

New battery and plug. Sprayed wd4o into combustion chamber.
Disassembled the carb, cleaned it, jets and all according to your posts.
Removed all lines and made sure they were clear.
Removed the device below the fuel tank and soak it in gas, cleaned it and made sure fuel flows.
New fuel and oil.

Issues:

The throttle cable: how does it go into the carb? I am not getting any real throttle spring action in the handgrip either.

I noticed there is no oil flowing through the clear tube heading to the carb. I does flow from the tank easily through the line to the pump? (if thats what it is called).

This ped was in heated storage for 20 years with fuel and oil in it. It turns over perfectly.

Help!

Thanks !

You need 3 things for an engine to start,

1) Compression
2) Fuel
3) Spark

First, WD in the combustion chamber is a bad thing, it washes all the oil off the cylinder walls. lowers compression and lets the rings gind up the cylinder walls.
Second, check for spark. Also make sure the "off/run" switch is in the run position or you will never have spark.

Once the engine fires up the oil pump will pump oil, cranking speed isn't gonna move much oil. If you are worried punt a couple of ounces of oil in the gas tank.

Bear45-70 wrote:You need 3 things for an engine to start,

1) Compression
2) Fuel
3) Spark

First, WD in the combustion chamber is a bad thing, it washes all the oil off the cylinder walls. lowers compression and lets the rings gind up the cylinder walls.
Second, check for spark. Also make sure the "off/run" switch is in the run position or you will never have spark.

Once the engine fires up the oil pump will pump oil, cranking speed isn't gonna move much oil. If you are worried punt a couple of ounces of oil in the gas tank.

I would just like to add that with two strokes, there are 4 things that are needed...
4)Good reeds valve.

Ok, your issues.

1. Throttle slide has 2 notches on it, on small, one long. The short one should face out, towards you. Line it up with the idle-speed adjust screw, and it should all sink in. If you have it backwards, the throttle will be stuck at WOT. Bad for starting....usually.

2. Ok, you have your fuel tank. Right beneath it, you have what is called a "vacuum operated petcock". It has two hoses. The upper one leads to your carbuerator and supplies gasoline, the bottom hose leads to your intake manifold, where suction (vacuum) from the engine pulls open the diaphram in your petcock, letting fuel come out into the carb. Your intake manifold also has another tube coming from the oil pump, which lets oil into the intake manifold. Your oil doesn't directly mix with the gas, it mixes with the gas/air mixture as it comes out of the carb and goes into the engine.

3. So, spraying wd40 into the combustion chamber won't do much for you. I'm going to assume that you have a nice, blue spark when you turn the engine over. I'm also going to assume that since you've only cleaned the carb once, it's not clean enough. I'm not trying to be mean or condescending, it's just that these little bastards are VERY touchy to being dirty. I've had to clean mine out 5 times (I think), and it still runs cruddy.

4. So, let's assume you're getting spark. Let's assume you're getting gas (or at least you're taking the spark plug out and spraying starter fluid/ carb cleaner in there to test). I'm willing to bet (I know, I say this all of the time) that your piston rings are stuck. Take your spark plug out. Take about 1 tablespoon of 2-stroke oil and put it in. If you're not confident you're getting enough gas from that dirty carb, spray a shot or two of starter fluid/carb cleaner in the chamber, as well. Put your plug back in. Try to start it.

I'm willing to bet that it'll start, and possibly run for a little bit. Sometimes, you can get lucky and once the engine warms up, all of the heat, motion, vibration, and pressure will work/knock those piston rings back out of their grooves so that they're sealing the chamber. But, sometimes you have to rebuild the top-end. I just got done putting new rings in my '86 Spree, it sat for 18 years in a polebarn. With gas and oil...those *.

Dac wrote:

Bear45-70 wrote:You need 3 things for an engine to start,

1) Compression
2) Fuel
3) Spark

First, WD in the combustion chamber is a bad thing, it washes all the oil off the cylinder walls. lowers compression and lets the rings gind up the cylinder walls.
Second, check for spark. Also make sure the "off/run" switch is in the run position or you will never have spark.

Once the engine fires up the oil pump will pump oil, cranking speed isn't gonna move much oil. If you are worried punt a couple of ounces of oil in the gas tank.

I would just like to add that with two strokes, there are 4 things that are needed...
4)Good reeds valve.

Ever hear of a rotary valve 2 stroke? Or a diesel 2 stroke with valves? And when running at high rpm, the reeds don't close at all, which actually has nothing to do with the op's problem but I doubt his reeds went bad sitting in a heated garage. However in a 2 stroke you also have compression in the crankcase which is what the reed seal, otherwise the 2 stroke won't run even if you have compression in the cylinder, so actually compression covers it.

The clear line from the oil pump to the manifold needs to be filled with oil. Read the service manual (on this site) regarding priming the oil pump.

Lack of springback of the throttle cable usually means a dirty cable. You can get a device that clamps over the cable and works with pressurized cable lube to inject lube into the housing and address this. There should be a return spring at the carb, I assume it's in place.