Honda Spree and Elite 50 Forums

I thought it would be easier to start a new thread, if the mods dont like that, I apologise, my bad. I just thought it might be easier. Feel free to delete and use the old thread if need be.
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OK, so here it is. No huge scratches or gouges in the cylinder OR the piston. The piston is practicaly new looking! Both rings AND circlips are present and intact!

The only problem I saw (remenber, im a rookie) was when I first reassembled it. When I removed the wrist pin it was hard to get out, really hard. It only came out one side. It wouldnt come out the other. Same thing when it went back in. it was REALY tight and still is! It wont slide at all from side to side. I dont know if its relevent or not, but I thought it was worth mentioning. Also, there is some kinda dust/particles present in the cylinder, but not on the piston. (pictured)

What could have happened?? Whats next??

I think I found the problem. Look at all this crap in the lower end of the engine. That would most likely be the culprit, would it not? Its all little shavings. Its the same stuff on the cylinder wall. So, how do I flush it out? Can I flush it out?

scooternewby wrote:I think I found the problem. Look at all this crap in the lower end of the engine. That would most likely be the culprit, would it not? Its all little shavings. Its the same stuff on the cylinder wall. So, how do I flush it out? Can I flush it out?

Read the second post in your other topic from Veedub......

i dont know what it is, but it sure as * dont look good.


you got a good air filter on that thing?
It almost looks like its sucking in dirt.

ALOW1 wrote:

scooternewby wrote:I think I found the problem. Look at all this crap in the lower end of the engine. That would most likely be the culprit, would it not? Its all little shavings. Its the same stuff on the cylinder wall. So, how do I flush it out? Can I flush it out?

Read the second post in your other topic from Veedub......

Got it! Sounds about right! I'll give it a try!

Does that mean I have to remove the engine? Is there no bottom drainage on the engine?

Greetings:

You posted: When I removed the wrist pin it was hard to get out, really hard. It only came out one side. It wouldnt come out the other. Same thing when it went back in. it was REALY tight and still is! It wont slide at all from side to side.

Tight is good in many situations. Here it's OK. The wrist pin fits into a bearing located in the little end of the connecting rod. All the movement happens there. Check how loose it is in that bearing, however. There's a method in all the Service Manuals in Technical Documents.

The shrapnel in your cases is most likely shredded ring material from your original post. I bet if you put the broken ends together, you can't find an exact fit. You won't be able to reassemble the little shavings. Follow previous advice for washing out the cases. Take your time to do it right, or you will be doing it over.

scooternewby wrote:Does that mean I have to remove the engine? Is there no bottom drainage on the engine?

There is no bottom drain.

I would remove the engine to do this, its not that hard to remove and on the plus side it will let you get to be more familiar with the scoot. Its almost a win win situation

Sorry I'm just trying to make you feel better as I know you are probably dreading removing the engine. But its not really that hard to do. It will all be worth it in the long run, and then you can brag to your friends that you did ALL the work yourself.

Greetings:

It took me under an hour last night, on the first try. Included cleaning a lot of crud prior to cylinder surgery. 6 or 7 wires, airbox, throttle, hose lines, rear brake - no tools necessary for that one! - muffler - probably could have left it on but it almost removed itself riding home last night. Then that one big (if 12 mm is "big"...) pivot bolt and you can walk away with it under your arm.

I can tell you that working on it with the tire pinched securely in my WorkMate beats the living entrails out of squatting down by the bike. I kept my hands and fingernails clean the whole time. Put on a clean white lab coat. Just don't call me Franz Gunter.

OK, motor is out! Took only half an hour! Im overly nervous at this point! Im going to take it to a place here where I can safely rinse out the engine with gas and carb cleaner.

I'll be back in a few hours to put her back together!

Motor is flushed. Did the gas and shake first. Then I filled and emptied an entire can of carb cleaner into it. Sprayed it in and dumped it out repeatedly. Then I layed the motor on its side and sprayed more carb cleaner into it continualy and then just let it fllow out.

It seemed to be coming out pretty clear.

So now the motor is re-installed but I havent put the top end back together yet. I'll do that after I pick my kid up from school.

Fingers are crossed here!!

Maybe I'm crazy, but from those pictures, that cylinder does NOT look OK to me. IMO, you can clearly see the lines in it.

Also, you'll want to put some oil on the crank since you prob washed it all off with the gas and carb cleaner. The oiler will not provide enough to lube it properly just from running before the crank fails.

No, your not crazy, I see those to. Its just streaks in the oil on the edge of the cylinder. After I sprayed the cylinder down with carb cleaner, its nice and smooth. At least, it appears that way. . .

After flushing you need to flood the bottom end with oil and dump out the excess.