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Honda Elite 50 final gear install countershaft washer issue

Posted: Wed Jan 07, 2009 10:39 pm
by Spetrodc
I've had my 99 Elite 50 SAP for 6 months now with various mods. I got it locally for $800 from a guy looking to unload his backup scoot. It was already derestricted when I got it and topped out at about 40 on flats but acceleration was spotty and I thought I'd get squished in traffic.

Daywot (Patrick) helped me out with a race CDI and KRS 8 weight speed variator which got me easily to 45-50 but not close to that on hills. My next mod was a Polini Contesta big bore. That and a 2500 clutch springs and a new center spring solved my acceleration problems and helped a lot on hills as well.

After a 250 mile break in, I took it for a nice ride, maybe 4 miles with some WOT for about 5 minutes and she seized on me. Got the cylinder and piston honed at the local machine shop and was back in business.

Next step was a 21mm OKO carb with a 107 main and new intake with a UNI filter. Trying to get more fuel and air to the head to keep it cool. Still had another seize.

Next was a temp gauge that Burnt_Toast helped me out with and thats when I found out that I was routinely running at around 400 degrees and frequently flirting with the death range of head temps.

With the Contesta fairly scuffed I decided to upgrade to the ported Corsa kit and up my main jet to 135. The upjetting really got the temp down just as Burnt_Toast said it would. But I also wanted to take some strain off the engine so I decided to go to 8.4-1 final gears.

After getting the stock gear pressed off and new gear pressed on the axle, the whole rear wheel seized when I tightened the transmission cover back on.

That brings us to the dreaded washer issue. I've read posts where people have just removed the outer metal washer with no ill effects. I've also read posts where people removed the plastic washer on the back side of the countershaft with no problems. And some have removed both.

I'd really like to hear everyone's opinions on the washer situation with upgraded final gearing. I decided to remove the plastic washer in the back of the case to get the countershaft gear flush with the final gear. Seems to run fine but I'm concerned about the countershaft gear running at high RPM's up against the case.

Let the debate begin!

Posted: Wed Jan 07, 2009 10:52 pm
by Kenny_McCormic
What are you running for oil??? Stock injection? Gotta run 25:1 premix with kitted bikes.

Posted: Wed Jan 07, 2009 11:07 pm
by Dac
Kenny_McCormic wrote:What are you running for oil??? Stock injection? Gotta run 25:1 premix with kitted bikes.
...40:1...

Thrust Washers

Posted: Wed Jan 07, 2009 11:16 pm
by Wheelman-111
Greetings:

My NB50H '87 Aero Manual shows 2 "washers", one on each side of the countershaft. In reality there were 3; 2 fiber + 1 metal one, when I dismantled it.

I think tke idea is to center the gears with respect to one another, allow a little play in the shafts to accommodate thermal expansion and to lubricate the shaft ends and gear side faces.

If you can accurately measure the shafts in the case spaces, maybe using Plastigauge, you'll know how much and where the shimming needs to go.

I'll be doing this and know more when my used case cover and countershaft arrive. I plan to install the Malossi gears on those, keeping the stock parts intact to permit a quick change back to stock if the 7.83 ratio proves to be too tall for the Contesta to pull.

As I recall, the outside fiber gear goes on last? Then install the cover. If things are not horribly tight, the 40 weight oil in there should handle it.

Posted: Thu Jan 08, 2009 12:23 am
by Kenny_McCormic
Dac wrote:
Kenny_McCormic wrote:What are you running for oil??? Stock injection? Gotta run 25:1 premix with kitted bikes.
...40:1...
crackhead...

Posted: Thu Jan 08, 2009 1:06 am
by Dac
Kenny_McCormic wrote:
Dac wrote:
Kenny_McCormic wrote:What are you running for oil??? Stock injection? Gotta run 25:1 premix with kitted bikes.
...40:1...
crackhead...
To much oil and your motor will run lean. You got to tune. its all about tuning...
:lol:
http://hondaspree.net/phpBB2/viewtopic.php?t=7779

everything is tuning.

Posted: Thu Jan 08, 2009 1:29 am
by Arnadanoob
Wow, I don't recall running a jet that small (107) in any bike with a Polini kit on it. Novices will benefit much from a CHT for basic tuning while the more experienced can tune without it, especially for the initial setup.

The washer you describe is something I'd leave installed unless your rear wheel doesn't move. Then it's only a matter of removing ONLY the plastic washer nearest the cover, that should resolve your issue. Simply removing stuff on something you don't understand fully isn't a good idea.

Carb tuning takes a lot of time and practice. On a fresh bore kit I'd recommend an oil ratio of 32:1 to about 25:1 for the initial break in. You won't believe how many strokers I've seen in excess of 100cc that runs jets smaller than my 66-72cc bikes that come in all seized up. When my customers pickup their bikes, they usually ask me what parts were changed out because it runs so different, I rarely have to change much of anything aside from jets and weights to get the bikes to run well, you won't believe how messed up a lot of bikes are. One note, you don't often tune the bike to the bore size, rather you tune it to the type of pipe you're using.

Kenny's hard pressed on 25:1 which is never a bad thing to run that much oil as long as your carb is jetted correctly and the spark plug can fire through it, I usually tell folks to stay with 32:1 since it's a more round number in regards to the per gallon to ounce ratio. I believe it's more of a matter of the kind/brand/type of oil than it is the ratio of oil to fuel, this is my own belief and I'm not preaching this to you as a rule.

Oil

Posted: Thu Jan 08, 2009 8:53 am
by Spetrodc
I'm using Motul 2 stoke at a 20:1 during the break in and I'll be doing 25:1 after that.

Jetting

Posted: Thu Jan 08, 2009 8:57 am
by Spetrodc
My OKO carb came with the #107 main installed. I ordered a kit with jets up to 160 so I could experiment. I was at 135 and now I'm at 125 but I need to play with the rollers a bit to get acceleration right. Top speed now is well over 50 but I'm not going to open it up until broken in properly. Only did a short run of a few hundred yards to check speed initially. Luckily I only have a 2 mile commute and it has been snowing every other day here so I haven't gotten to break it in as fast as I would have liked.

washer

Posted: Thu Jan 08, 2009 8:58 am
by Spetrodc
I'll open up the transmission case tonight and put the plastic washer back and removed that front washer and see if there is any binding of the wheel. IF there is anyone out there running without the back side plastic washer, please let me know. I'm interested to hear if you've had any problems.

Re: Oil

Posted: Thu Jan 08, 2009 12:05 pm
by Dac
Spetrodc wrote:I'm using Motul 2 stoke at a 20:1 during the break in and I'll be doing 25:1 after that.
now that page i linked for kenny is something you should read too. it really explains lean/rich/jetting.

Running that much oil might be making you lean and causing seizes.

Posted: Thu Jan 08, 2009 12:30 pm
by Spetrodc
Wouldn't the larger jet size compensate for the extra oil in the fuel? And wouldn't running lean show up in plug chops and head temperature increases? i wasn't running that much oil when I seized. FYI

Posted: Thu Jan 08, 2009 12:35 pm
by Spetrodc
I'm running nice and cool now (under 300 at 40-45 mph) and that is with the 125 main jet and oko 24mm carb and uni filter and 8.4 gears. [/img]

Posted: Thu Jan 08, 2009 1:28 pm
by Spetrodc

Posted: Thu Jan 08, 2009 3:56 pm
by Kenny_McCormic
Noting wrong with that much oil all you gotta do is install a bigger jet to let the gas displaced by the oil through.

If you look at people SERIOUS about making power(2 stroke kart racers) they run unbelievable oil mixes (usually 16:1 or fatter) given some of this has to do with turning 15,000 RPM but the dyno doesn't lie.

A man named Gordon Jennings did A LOT of scientific study on the 2 stroke motor back in the 70s. This is what he found out about oil, more oil=more power and CLEANER INTERNALS. http://edj.net/2stroke/jennings/oilpremix.pdf

http://edj.net/2stroke/jennings/ read it ALL, the 2 stroke motor really is misunderstood even today, blame the EPA and California.