Honda Spree and Elite 50 Forums

So the 2 screws that hold my Carb to the engine are stripped......well the fixtures on the carb itself are stripped. Has anyone on here run across this problem and redrilled the carb fixtures to a larger size?

Should I just buy a new carb? Or is it possible for this to work alright?

Its likely fixable, and someone recently had the same problem. Some drill/tap the carb to 1/4 x 20, others put in inserts. If your model has easy access to both sides, you can use through bolts and nuts.

http://www.hondaspree.net/phpBB2/viewtopic.php?t=9255

I have an 85.....Im thinking of just a longer bolt & nut....i really dont wanna try rethreading....it makes me nervous just thinking about screwing(ha ha) something up haha

Thanks so much!

brokanic

I did same with my old spree and just put a nut on longer bolt, worked like a charm and i'd highly recommend this fix

Exactly Toast. I did that with my second Spree, the green one I had a long time ago. Thankfully, we have a place out here called MidState Bolt and Screw. Metric bolts in any length/size and thread diameter.

I used heli-coils. worked like a charm, and have lasted this long, i'd say go with heli coils so you don't have some random nut in the way.

~toboggan

burnt_toast wrote:I did same with my old spree and just put a nut on longer bolt, worked like a charm and i'd highly recommend this fix

Me three. Among the insults metted out on my Spree, the PO managed to mangle the manifold/carb threads too. And 99.4% of experts agree, a loose carb a bad running bike makes.

So - I stuck a pair of nuts behind the threads, and laced up two appropriately sized screws. OILA! Tighty-mighty.

CAUTION!: Be sure the screws aren't SO long they pierce the carb body when tightened. If that happens, your carb be toast, Mayne.
CaptDan>

Greetings:

Heli-coil inserts are OK for infrequent disassembly, but in my experience if they're not LocTited in they spin out after 3-4 cycles. Try this.

Go Here:

http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/ctaf/D ... mber=96570

Head to Harbor Freight on the Bad Side of Town. Buy that.

If you have a 1/4" drill, enlarge the 2 holes in the manifold and the brown heat insulator to that size. If not pick up a cheap set at HF.

Run the 1/4" tap through the mounting holes in the carb flange. Just take care to spin it straight through; 1 turn right, half turn left and keep going until the tool is all the way through to the bottom. Ta-Daah! You've just created threads.

Go to any hardware store and buy 1/4"x20 threads per inch bolts in the same length as your stock 5mm carb bolts. (mine were 1-1/2 and 2") You can add small washers if you want to get fancy.

Go on a starvation diet to curtail that super-human strength of yours, and press easy on the ratchet the next time you bolt up that carb. If the rubber o-rings are squeezed tight, an eighth-turn more is plenty.

Wheelman exclaims:

Ta-Daah! You've just created threads.

Indeed, this is a better solution than the bolt/nut fix.

In the long run, that carb's comin' off again, yebetcha, and it's FAR easier remounting it with proper threads than farkling around with needle nose pliers aligning finicky nuts in small spaces.

CaptDan>

Greetings:

The Captain submits:

In the long run, that carb's comin' off again, yebetcha, and it's FAR easier remounting it with proper threads than farkling around with needle nose pliers aligning finicky nuts in small spaces

...and he is correct. One time I got away with Super-gluing a nut to the carb flange, but it's a one-time or temporary solution at best. You still have to bugger the threads in the carb for it to work either way, might as well cut some useful ones.

I just fixed this problem today. I bought a Kobalt brand 1/4" tap and drill two pack and a T handle tap wrench as well as cutting fluid at Lowe's for $15. It worked great.