Honda Spree and Elite 50 Forums

dem0nk1d wrote:that same bit you used for the porting on your engine case, correct? if so i'm going to get that bit for sure.

That would be tha one. The bit costs about $10 -$15 for one. Cuts wood,tile,glass,metal,plastic,and diamonds (I think)

I found these on ebay. $20 for two. They should fit my modded housing AND have very low power consumption. But because they are LEDs, they will NOT work on the stock AC setup. rewiring is a must for this setup.


Maybe this setup would be more practical and economical for others on this forum. The HID setup is Hella bright ! Too bright for most people.

Oncomming scooter view stock


Oncomming scooter HID conversion

Heres the problem with the HID setups as they are here.

Its the fricking LENSE. ALthought Im new to the scooter scene, Ive done / seen some GREAT retrofits with OEM headlights and OEM projectors from another car.The typical one is TSX or S2K projectors in Accord headlights.

The main this is you need a clear lense, the difuser in the stock one makles its "glartastic" and just blinds the s*** outta everyone.

What are the thoughts on making a vacuum formed lexan clear lense... or is there a model that came OEM with a clear lence headlight? If there was, it would be relativle simple to get an FX45 OEM Bi Xenon projector and some used OEM balasts and bulbs and have a proper working HID projector with HI and LO beam waht wont blind anyone and give WAY better output then stock.

Just for reference, heres a pic of the headlights I made for my wife's Sienna. they are new "DEPO" headlights for a 2000 (because of the clear lense) OEM Bosch balasts from some kind of benz, Infiniti FX45 Bi Xenon projectors, and OEM G37 bulbs from a wreck.



From a block away you can draw a pencil line on the cutoff point..

Hey anything to make your more noticeable in the night i'm for it.

AstroVannin wrote:Heres the problem with the HID setups as they are here.

Its the fricking LENSE. ALthought Im new to the scooter scene, Ive done / seen some GREAT retrofits with OEM headlights and OEM projectors from another car.The typical one is TSX or S2K projectors in Accord headlights.

The main this is you need a clear lense, the difuser in the stock one makles its "glartastic" and just blinds the s*** outta everyone.

What are the thoughts on making a vacuum formed lexan clear lense... or is there a model that came OEM with a clear lence headlight? If there was, it would be relativle simple to get an FX45 OEM Bi Xenon projector and some used OEM balasts and bulbs and have a proper working HID projector with HI and LO beam waht wont blind anyone and give WAY better output then stock.

Just for reference, heres a pic of the headlights I made for my wife's Sienna. they are new "DEPO" headlights for a 2000 (because of the clear lense) OEM Bosch balasts from some kind of benz, Infiniti FX45 Bi Xenon projectors, and OEM G37 bulbs from a wreck.

From a block away you can draw a pencil line on the cutoff point..

The clear lexan would probably melt. These bulbs get pretty hot. (around 200 degrees F)
The HID kits do have some that have a High And Low beams, but I have no experience with the hi/low kits.(Bi Xenon)
I know what you mean about the non clear -vs- clear covers having more glare, but this is a 10k kit. It would blind an oncomming driver with even the clearest cover. Looking directly at it is kind like welding with no mask.


BTW: Your wife's headlights look great ! (And those clear lenses look good too.)

Nice work. This will get moved to the Wiki.

As for blinding drivers; well, point the bulb down. As long as it's not in their face it shouldn't blind them. And at least they'll notice you.

What I especially like about these kits is the low continuous current draw of 3A, which is close to the stock 2A bulb. A better solution than a 5A, 60W bulb.

Thanks for the props.

She didnt like driving at night since she couldnt see all that well ... that is the one and only reason those lights exist.

I dont think you would melt the lense.. after all, most of the headlight lenses you see now are plastic.. Including the ones for the Sienna.

Even a 10,000K heat range (as pictured) wouldnt be bad at all in a proper HID projector. What blinds oncoming drivers is the randon light output that dosent go as directed. With a good HID projector.. none of the light is projected above the defined point. Typically, the K rating on the bulb really only defines the colour. For my own purposes I almost ALWAYS use 3000K (yellow) I kept the 4700K bulbs for the Sienna because I wanted it to look as OEM as possible.

In the pics posted... all that "glare" is the light going when not intended. If you were to photograph a projector from teh smae angle, same bulb and everything, it would just appear as a iluminated circle. The Bi Xenon projectors that would would get from an OEM application are a bit different then the glare kit bulbs you can get online. With the projectors for my Sienna, the "hi beam" switch just activated a little solenoid that moves the sheild (which is what determines the cutoff) out of the way completly. Its a single D2S buld thats iluminated all teh time. Hi is just without the sheild, and LO is with the sheild in place.

With the ones on the van, you can stand directly in front of it and not haev any problem.. you just see two white circles.... NOW, if you kneel down below the cutoff.... then its like watching somone welding.

Il see if I can take some pics for reference tonight

Trafficjamz wrote:The HID setup is Hella bright ! Too bright for most people.

You make a good point. We have a guy in our town who hooked up the bright lights on the rollbar on his truck. It is so blinding, oncoming traffic is traumatized. What good does it do if people can see you, but so blinded, they swerve and run over you. I think they are dangerous.

Lunytune wrote:

Trafficjamz wrote:The HID setup is Hella bright ! Too bright for most people.

You make a good point. We have a guy in our town who hooked up the bright lights on the rollbar on his truck. It is so blinding, oncoming traffic is traumatized. What good does it do if people can see you, but so blinded, they swerve and run over you. I think they are dangerous.

When I said this light is too bright for most people. I meant for people NOT ON the scooter aka oncomming traffic.
The pure unrestricted raw light shooting out of the front of the scooter for the driver is awsome. It is like daylight is following you around. I think maybe a whole other light will be the answer to a "low beam" for this project. Like maybe a small fog light mounted where the horn is. But I have not given up on putting a second, dimmer,bulb in the stock housing

noiseguy wrote:Nice work. This will get moved to the Wiki.

As for blinding drivers; well, point the bulb down. As long as it's not in their face it shouldn't blind them. And at least they'll notice you.

What I especially like about these kits is the low continuous current draw of 3A, which is close to the stock 2A bulb. A better solution than a 5A, 60W bulb.

This first pic is the HID on the ammmeter (a spike to 7.93A then slowly settles at 3.62A


Next is the 100W H3 HID Look xenon bulb (quick spike to Over 11A then Constant 5.35A


Finally the DOT approved H3 55W bulb (quick spike to 10.99A then Constant 4.31A

Interesting startup current capture. Cadillac instumentation you have there too...

mousewheels wrote:Interesting startup current capture. Cadillac instumentation you have there too...

Why thank you Mouse. I just figured a the graphing meter shows what it would take forever for me to explain.

That is the vantage pro from snap on it costs about $2500, so I use it every chance I get.

taz just has all the cool toys...

T-jamz was that lite bulb soldered to the metal on the bulb case? i dont have a "magic stik" so i thought if its soldered ill just slow heat it to undo the lite.

odinxxix wrote:T-jamz was that lite bulb soldered to the metal on the bulb case? i dont have a "magic stik" so i thought if its soldered ill just slow heat it to undo the lite.

I don't know if you could un-solder that or not. If you don't have a magicstick, I would use a hacksaw and cut straight down.