Honda Spree and Elite 50 Forums

mikeosoft wrote:Bear if I cannot find a dealer close to me if you don't mind it I'd like to get that part. I will pm you in the next few days when I know if i need a replacement or if my return line is clogged/carb issues. There is no return line because this is a gravity feed fuel system.

The running list of stuff i (might) need so far:
1. Front tire --> what size should i choose? 3.50 X 10 is standard.
2. Front brake cable No longer Available in the US, maybe one is available in Europe.
3. back tire -->bigger than front? Front and rear tires are 3.50 X 10 from Honda.
4. petcock Available from Honda. PETCOCK, AUTOMATIC 16950-KG8-901 (replaces 16950-KG8-003) 001 $43.13
5. motorcycle license This is between you an the state.
6. tinytach -- ordered, waiting for arrival Good move.
7. lightweight rollers? Stock weight is 21.5 grams and they are 20 X 15. This is as close as I've come other than a set of 20.5 gram rollers from Europe. http://www.ebay.com/itm/230805592708?ss ... 1986wt_952

8. new belt? Belt is NLA and several people are working on a source. Only one of my 125 belts was worn below spec and the variator and clutch pulley were both rusted to cause it.
9. 105 jet



P.S. Bear i found this aero 125 minty fresh on feebay from washington, i thought you might be interested, incase you don't already know about it:
Item number: 251084677881

Tate wrote:Yeah I am a moped guy too so don't tell the kids over at Moped Smarmy I am here.

Anything with a 125cc 2 stroke engine is cool in my book.

If you take your bad cable to any motorsports shop worth a d*** you should be able to match it up to something within a couple inches of what you need. A little too long is better than a little too short. True, but it needs to be close to the Honda style cable.

Also the last time I had one of those it had sat so long the the starter motor had gotten stuck.

What I did is pull the spark plug, squirt some amsoil saber 2 cycle oil down there, then turn the engine over by hand via the flywheel.

Then I pulled the starter motor because it was still stuck and I had to separate the two halves and get some electrical cleaner and WD40 in there.

Getting the cup and magnet back together with the magnets and everything in the right place was a hassle but after that the starter worked and they are stupid expensive if you have to replace them. Should have just rotated the starter motor shaft, this clears 95% of the stuck starter issues.

As for the petcock I can't remember off the top of my head but I think it could be replaced by any old scooter vacuum petcock. I might be mistaken there but if I am right it would be a huge savings over Honda part price. Wrong, Honda used a least a dozen different petcocks.

And if you can't get the starter to work DO NOT I repeat DO NOT tap on it like you would if a car starter wouldn't turn.

I had a kid bring me an Elite 180 where the starter wouldn't turn so he hit it with a little hammer or something, like you do when your car starter is dying.

He had managed to knock the magnets off of the can and they had shattered and got all jammed up in everything. Anyone who strikes an DC electric motor is a moron and deserves they mess they create.

Good luck with her.

They are bulbous and hideously awesome 80s styling plus they are 125cc 2 strokes which makes them kickass.

mikeosoft wrote:hey so i've been doing some searching on different tire brands, likes and dis-likes, and i've narrowed it down to a few brands:

1. Vee Rubber Racing 3.5 x 10 - VRM 228 -- http://www.amazon.com/Scooter-Tire-Vee- ... B003JNYFMO
Supposedly these are the only tires i found that are "rated P" as opposed to "J" which means they can handle speeds up to 94mph not 55 like J


2. Yokohama -- http://scootrs.com/moreinfo.cfm?Product_ID=1067
My dad thinks highly of Yokohama and Toyo as we've had good use out of both brands for my miata, also he's all for a japanese tire on a japanese bike.


3. Kenda Brand Tire Classics --http://www.trendtimes.com/35x10-4pr-ken ... leproducts
typical kenda tyre

4. Vee VRM 134 --http://www.ebay.com/itm/3-50-10-Scooter ... 1357wt_955
I like the design of these treads but i have no idea how that translates to better handling and not hydroplaning
Tires are always the choice of the rider or those paying for them.

I took off the rear brake light housing last night to clean the shells and rejouvinate the black plastics, and noticed a standard 1157 lamp used from the brake tail light... Got me thinking: 1157 is correct

LED replacements--

Yes/no? has anyone else done this? I notice when i am idling the headlight is slightly dimmer than when revving higher, would an led lamp set reduce the strain on the battery/alternator and improve the useless headlight luminosity?
The LED thing has been done and works fine for the tail and brake light but creates problems with the turn signal. The headlight is run by AC from the alternator, not DC from the battery circuit. Low revs, low voltage; high revs, high voltage, this is normal for the headlight.

Can anyone with some experience recommend a good company to go with, i see there are tons of different quality types and led combinations, e.g. bright white leds, red leds, 37 array, star formations, etc.


Also yesterday I noticed there is a tiny bit of play in the steering column. If I hold my feet against the wheel and twist the handlebar I can move the apart slightly. I have the shop manual here and have identified the stem lock bolt I think I need to tighten. Anyone else have this issue in the past? I have not but it is possible.

Bear45-70 wrote:That is not how a petcock works. The spring holds the valve closed and when VACUUM not pressure is applied the valve is pulled open. Hence engine off, no fuel, engine cranking on the starter or running, vacuum pulls the valve open.