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Posted: Sat Apr 21, 2007 1:36 am
by PimpinSpree
i just sprayed mine, you can buy plastic adhesive promoter at a paint store. i bought a rattle can of it for $20 then sprayed it with sealer, sprayed orange paint with a spray gun then clear coated it.

I still have to wet sand the clear coat and put the bike back together. But first i have to get my second bike running so i can put my good one back together. then i'll get some pictures up

Posted: Sun Apr 22, 2007 3:53 pm
by KZ250andSpree
I was just wondering this same sort of thing. Do you have to completely strip the original paint with a plastic safe stripper first or do you just need to sand down the gloss before you start spraying primer or anything?

Posted: Sun Apr 22, 2007 5:14 pm
by PimpinSpree
you just need to take the gloss off. i used scotchbrite pads, but i think some 220 sand paper would work better. After its all sanded. whipe it down with some rubbing alcohol and a roll of paper towls. Then directly before you paint, rub it down with some tack cloths. They are sticky mesh "cloths" that will pull any lint from it. After that i would highly recomend getting some plastic prep. spray that on then use a primer. sand it down with some 400 grit sand paper. rub it with rubbing alcohol and another tack cloth. Then paint it. if you are spray painting, remember the key to making it look good is do very fine coats. it should take at least 3 or 4 coats to start changing the color. Im talking very thin coats. It should take like 10+ coats till you are done. then switch to clear coat. Again fine coats. Put another 10 thin coats of clear coat. Thin coats, i cant stress that enough. After youve cot that, you can either call it done or wet sand it with 600, 800, and 1200 and then rub it down with some polish.

with plastic, make sure you get the gloss off first, and make sure you wipe it down good, if there is any dust, the paint will flake off

Posted: Sun Apr 22, 2007 5:23 pm
by KZ250andSpree
Thanks for the write up, that'll be very helpful :)

Posted: Thu Apr 26, 2007 7:37 pm
by joevanvliet
jeez that looks nice jbarb

Posted: Thu May 03, 2007 4:57 pm
by slowspree
Heres a picture of my spree painted!
Image[/img]

Posted: Fri May 04, 2007 8:21 pm
by PimpinSpree
i like the 2 tone paint, looks good

Posted: Wed May 16, 2007 6:10 pm
by PimpinSpree
click for full size pictures

Image
Image
Image

Posted: Thu Aug 30, 2007 12:00 am
by wingit
Painting Plastic Parts
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Tools Needed: 1. Whatever tools that are required to remove the part to paint
2. Airbrush


Other Items: 1. Sandpaper, 400-600 grit
2. Tack cloth
3. Plastic adhesion promoter (primer)
4. Color paint
5. Clearcoat
6. Reducer
7. Flex agent if paint requires it


When using an airbrush, many times you are required to thin the paint. Check out a local hobby store for an inexpensive airbrush kit (or a compressor and paint gun for larger projects).

If you're unsure of painting, try a practice piece or the back of the plastic piece you are painting.



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Step 1 - Remove part to be painted


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Step 2 - Clean thoroughly

Remove all grease and wax using a degreaser and a detergent.


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Step 3 - Wet sand

Wet sand lightly, so that the promoter will adhere better.


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Step 4 - Clean again

Clean again with detergent and dry, or use a tack cloth.


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Step 5 - Plastic adhesion coat
Follow instructions on the can.
Apply 2 coats and allow for drying time (time on can)
DO NOT OVERSPRAY!!!
If you notice imperfections, you can wet sand again and apply another promoter coat.



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Step 6 - Paint
Follow instructions on the paint can.
Wipe down lightly with a tack cloth to remove any dust or debris.
You'll likely have to use a reducer at this point to thin out your paint mix (refer to the can or your airbrush instructions for details).
Apply about 3-4 thin coats, allow for drying time per instructions on can between coats, in many cases over an hour.
DO NOT OVERSPRAY!!!
More coats may be needed, you want a smooth surface.
Allow to dry for 6-24 hours, the more coats, the longer the drying time.
FYI - Don't touch while drying, yes it is wet, yes you will leave marks.



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Step 7 - Clear Coat
Follow instructions on the clear coat can.
Wipe down lightly with a tack cloth to remove any dust or debris.
Apply about 2-4 coats, allow for drying time per instructions on can between coats, in many cases over three hours.
DO NOT OVERSPRAY!!!
More coats may be needed, you want a smooth, bubble free surface.
Allow to dry for a full 24 hours.
FYI - Don't touch!



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Step 8 - READ THE LABELS

Check with the paint and clearcoat maker about waxing information before using any wax. Most recommend not to in the beginning.

The labels will also tell you any additional instructions the manufacturer recommends you follow.


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Step 8 - Reinstall part



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PPG, DuPont, and ColorRite are good paints to use, here is some PPG info:

Plastic Adhesion Promoter - SXA1050
Reducer - DT870
Urethane Clearcoat - DCU2021
Hardener - DCX61

Posted: Fri Aug 31, 2007 2:21 am
by stillspeeding
Paint is cool but its what you hide between the panels that counts :o

Posted: Fri Aug 31, 2007 9:18 am
by Dac
stillspeeding wrote:Paint is cool but its what you hide between the panels that counts :o
wow for once i agree with you. however its not what this topic is about. thats the rest of the site

Posted: Wed Jun 11, 2008 9:10 am
by PimpinSpree
[quote="wingit"]Painting Plastic Parts
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Tools Needed: 1. Whatever tools that are required to remove the part to paint
2. Airbrush


Other Items: 1. Sandpaper, 400-600 grit
2. Tack cloth
3. Plastic adhesion promoter (primer)
4. Color paint
5. Clearcoat
6. Reducer
7. Flex agent if paint requires it





sorry to bring up an old thread, but i saw this............ adhesion promoter is not the same as primer. You need to spray on adheasion promoter to make the primer stick. Adhesion promoter is clear, and makes the primer stick to plastic much better