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Posted: Sat Sep 22, 2007 9:33 pm
by snikro
Well I'm definitely trying that next then. I've just never cleaned a carb/worked on an engine before and I'm somewhat intimidated by it.

Posted: Sat Sep 22, 2007 9:41 pm
by Dac
till i got my elite i didnt know what a piston was. let alone reeds,carb, and all the other parts of the motor.
Posted: Sat Sep 22, 2007 10:16 pm
by snikro
Is the procedure in the manual for cleaning the carb good to go by, or are there some insider tips/ extra things you should do? The manual basically shows you how do disassemble it and tells you to blow it all with compressed air.
Posted: Sat Sep 22, 2007 10:38 pm
by hondaman
After you have used lots of carb cleaner then use the compressed air to finish the job. You have to understand that old gas sitting in a carburetor will gum up the little holes in the jets. It can turn into a gummy varnish if left in there long enough. Thats why if you are not going to run the bike for even three week s or longer you should drain the gas out of the carburetor by using the drain screw. Even the tiniest particles of dirt in gas can block the small holes in the jets. If you store the bike over winter depending on where you are you should either drain all gasoline out of tank and carburetor or fill the tank and add a fuel stabilizer such as Stabil to keep the gas fresh and from it turning into varnish. I fill my tank just before I put it away and add the Stabil. I also drain the gas out of my carburetor.
Posted: Sun Sep 23, 2007 1:48 am
by darat
look in the bowl at the pick up tube goes and clean that out really good.
Posted: Sun Sep 23, 2007 11:26 am
by snikro
hondaman wrote:After you have used lots of carb cleaner then use the compressed air to finish the job.
You mean the carb cleaner I'm running through in the gas, or something else?
Posted: Sun Sep 23, 2007 12:35 pm
by hondaman
No. I mean carburetor cleaner that you get in a spray can. Any Walmart store will have it. Take the carburetor apart and spray carb cleaner everywhere in the inside of it. Unscrew the jets and spray them as well. Hold them up to a light and make sure you can see light through the little holes. Use a lot of it until the carburetor is spotless inside.
Posted: Sun Sep 23, 2007 12:46 pm
by hondaman
I also do not understand what you mean by running carb cleaner with your gas? Are you saying you added carb cleaner to your gas tank? Thats not good for anything rubber on your engine such as gaskets or hoses.
Posted: Sun Sep 23, 2007 6:18 pm
by dumdum9599
from all that i have read and understand is that it sounds like the carb or there could be geting to much oil in the gas which is harder to burn but when the plug is pulled it will still look ok. I say this because my yamaha does the same thing after about 3hours of running. you have to be sure the rank is cleen and if it is not perfect. then it gets some dirt in it then you lose power. but if you can keep it going long enough then the dirt will move. so if the tank is not 100% kleen then put a fuel filter on.
and does it have a working ingector pump on it or do you mix your own gas?
Posted: Mon Sep 24, 2007 1:07 pm
by snikro
The oil is injected and it seems to be working good.
As to hondaman's question, it's that STP carb cleaner you can buy at the store that you put in your car (but I just put a TINY amount in the scooter), I'm new to carbs and it said carb cleaner so heh go figure.
Posted: Mon Sep 24, 2007 1:21 pm
by snikro
Alternatively, would Islandbayy's carb cleaning method work well for a first shot?
http://www.hondaspree.net/phpBB2/viewtopic.php?t=3
(The second one on the page, with the seafoam and syringe)
It would work the same on an aero too right?
Posted: Mon Sep 24, 2007 3:13 pm
by dumdum9599
it should work just fin. just rembmber where all prats go and never rush. you want to get all the dirt.
Posted: Mon Sep 24, 2007 8:51 pm
by snikro
I went to walmart and they had everything but seafoam... where would have it?
Posted: Tue Sep 25, 2007 9:50 pm
by jeeptranstech
this is for snikro hi i have a 86 spree and my wife rides it around all the time and it just started doing every thing that urs is doing i mean everthing i dont have a hill where i live but if i run with the bike i will get good speed and rpms but slowly dies out and boggs out im a auto tech and have taken my carb apart and mine is so clean it looks new inside no dirt or rust not sure if ur carb is the problem i think mine is the reeds they are worn out and i can see light where they are pulled down and not sealed with the cage take a look at ur reeds after u clean ur carb if u bike still acts the same

Posted: Mon Oct 01, 2007 5:38 pm
by snikro
Well I got the seafoam to do islandbayy's carb cleaning method, and a syringe of sorts. Problem is I need an actual NEEDLE to get in that idle screw hole, so all I can do is put seafoam IN. I drained out a few drops of gas with the drain screw and put a littttle in and then replaced everything and as predicted it was hard to start, then when it did lots of white smoke. I went for a ride and it seemed to be a little better but I wasnt sure so I went back and did the same process but just putting way more seafoam into the carb and letting it sit for some minutes before turning it on. When I did there was almost no smoke, strange. There's not a world of difference but
a) The bike can hit that magic "opening up point" mentioned earlier without hardly any hill
b) The idle sounds smoother
c) It can sustain the top speed for a longer period of time if you reach it
d) It doesn't die out at full throttle, even if you're only steadily going like 10 mph with it held open, even up a hill. If you hold it at full throttle and cant get to the point where it really opens up it'll be slow but it'll keep going steadily
Should I try all of this multiple times?
Should I repeat the process until I see more results?