Honda Spree and Elite 50 Forums

I know this topic has been beat to death but heres my concern. Since apparently an Oil Pump Delete plug doesn't exist for the NQ50, Im told to use just a rubber stopper in the hole. First off, Im not doing this. I read wikispreedia and understand how the plug needs to fill the internal crankcase volume taken by the OEM pump. Does anyone have any better solutions or know of anywhere that makes one?

I pulled the driveshaft out of mine , flipped the special retainer nut around to allow the pump body to pull down hard onto the engine case and blanked off all the lines. Have been running like this for the past 10 months without a problem.

I dont think the engine is too bothered about the slight increase in crankcase volume due to the missing shaft. If you do it this way and keep the shaft then is easy enough to go back to using the oil pump should you desire

tig weld aluminum plug is best way to weld.

Meatball wrote:I know this topic has been beat to death but heres my concern. Since apparently an Oil Pump Delete plug doesn't exist for the NQ50, Im told to use just a rubber stopper in the hole. First off, Im not doing this. I read wikispreedia and understand how the plug needs to fill the internal crankcase volume taken by the OEM pump. Does anyone have any better solutions or know of anywhere that makes one?

I don't think that little bit of crankcase pressure lost will make that much difference. You can use the rubber plug to fill the hole, but you need the right type of plug. The plugs that have the bolt in the centre to tighten in the hole are what you need. Or grind the gears off of the shaft and call it done.

What do you think about something like this, pat?
http://www.ryderfleetproducts.com/moell ... 62-4414110

Yes Meatball that's exactly the kind of thing I was thinking of. A lot of auto parts stores carry them and sometimes hardware stores too. Some of them have just a plain bolt through it. Maybe we need a cnc spree oil pump plug. If I owned a lathe I would make some spree oil plugs.

This is what Im looking at from advanced auto parts. Im wanting the upper washer to fit into the recessed part of the oil pump hole and the rubber shaft part to fit into the smaller/lower opening. Does anyone know these dimensions or should I try to measure my openings. It'd be nice if I had a caliper to measure with but I don't..

http://shop.advanceautoparts.com/web/Pa ... rom=header

Those are the exact plugs I would just measure the hole with a tape measure, should get you close. I bet the 3/4 7/8 plug is the one

Pull the stock oil pump out. Grind off teeth of gear flat (assume pump is trashed already.) Reinstall.

OK, guys. So I deleted the oil pump today and am running 32:1 in the tank. I was able to actually go WOT for the first time after bbk install. It pulls smooth without any hiccups to about 30-31 and just screams but....theres a major vibration somewhere. It rattles the bike so bad it makes my hands/feet and * go numb just from going around the block. Starts at 20mph+ and gets worse when I gas it. Any ideas?

Ive checked all the obvious things...kickstand loose, exhaust loose, motor mount loose...all tight. I was reading a thread about how sometimes one clutch pad wears thinner before the others causing an imbalance. This would give me the symptoms I describe: an increasingly intensifying vibration directly coinciding with engine rpm's and/or travel speed. I will check the clutch pads for consistent wear tomorrow. If those measure fairly close to each other, what else should I be checking?

Hopefully its not the crank.... A good place to get one of those plugs would be a marine supply, like west marine etc.. Same plugs for drain on the transom of boats, but more variety..

Greetings:

I have never had a running Spree, but it would seem logical that a 48mm piston weighs considerably more than the 41mm stocker. The crank counterweights won't match the increased mass of the bigger slug, causing more than the accustomed level of vibration.

Heres what I used for my Oil Pump plug...Bought from Advance Auto Parts for $3.99

Heres the finished product. The plug would try to work its way out when I tightened it so I used the oil pump mounting bolt and a washer to hold it down. I had to take the washer to a bench grinder and grind away one side to allow for some wiring that was close by. You can also see in the pic that I cut a small notch in the top of the plug washer. This was so I could hold it still with a flathead screwdriver when I tightened it or else it would just spin in the hole. Once it starts to grab, you can tighten it the rest of the way without holding it.